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Unanswered Setup for Geckotek3d bed surface?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Rat_Patrol, Apr 17, 2017.

  1. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    Wonder if anybody has done this, what settings they used. I know from dabbling with it last year that the hot end (when hot) digging into the geckotek build plate causes instant issues, so its either cold leveling or disable auto-level.

    Just wonder if anybody has the bugs out of that process.
     
  2. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    Well, my new Gecko bed shipped, so I will be giving it a try. I'm thinking I may cut out a small corner where the machine homes (changed firmware to home at X0 Y0) and just home to the bare removable plate. Z offset would handle it from there.
     
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  3. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    In case anybody cares, the switch to the Geckotek setup went pretty well.

    The steel pins build into the aluminum plate don't line up perfectly with the magnets on the Y axis causing a slight rise (about .4mm) on the right side, but mesh leveling took care of that.

    Speaking of which, I would not even think about this setup w/o mesh leveling. My nozzle NEVER touches the coated bed, except at home (which is now X0 Y0 on my machine) where I cut a small amount of the coating off to get down to bare, clean metal. Jamming a nozzle into this build surface isn't a good idea, and doesn't work well. I tried one of their plates clipped to the glass bed with the OEM auto-level before with extremely poor results and a damaged build surface. I ran through the mesh gauging sequence, gauged and corrected my offset, and its printing wonderfully. I was worried about jerk/acceleration values with the much heavier bed, but so far no issues or adjustments needed. The new aluminum bed is also extremely sturdy, a sharp contrast to the flexing glass of the OEM.

    The ONLY issue is that the stock ROBO power supply can't heat the bed up much past 70*, which their website plainly informs you of. After emailing their tech support (owner?), he said that in his trials, a 24v power supply and relay quickly heated his bed to 100*. I have those components on order, otherwise it takes good while to get to 70* for printing PETG, but on the plus side the entire bed should be a more uniform temp since its aluminum.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Stock takes both of mine to 110 (albeit slowly past the 85 degree mark)
     
  5. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    My stock heater power supply is now seemingly over-heating trying to supply this bed. Keeps shutting down and killing the print.

    Tomorrow the upgraded supply and relay come :D
     
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  6. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    Got the heater power supply upgrade done, this thing heats up very nicely now :D
     
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  7. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Do you have any pictures of it? they show it on their website but not installed on a robo. ( their bed im talking about )
     
  8. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    I'll try to remember to take one tomorrow. Sharp looking actually :)
     
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  9. Rat_Patrol

    Rat_Patrol Member

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    Pic attached
     

    Attached Files:

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  10. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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