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ABS Share ABS print settings?

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by jonrobertd, Jul 24, 2016.

  1. jonrobertd

    jonrobertd New Member

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    Is anyone willing to share their ABS print settings for me to import into MatterControl, I have tried everything to get my prints to not warp, or shrink the base. I have tried different manufacturers, temps, speeds, adhesion methods, all fail. PLA works fine, but for what I am doing I need the heat resistance. Thank you for your help.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Geof likes this.
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I quit using abs because of these issues. @mark tomlinson suggested I try blueprint and I've been very happy when I need it
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    We had some parts that had to withstand the interior of a car in the sun in Florida in the summer :)

    BluPrint did the trick.
     
  6. jonrobertd

    jonrobertd New Member

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    Thanks for the tips y'all, i ordered Bluprint, so what do I need for heat settings?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, temperatures from other people are a fools game :)
    But assuming you just use it as a starting point...

    I can confirm that the settings Taulman gives are dead on to what I ended up using:

    BluPrint

    Print temp = 265C - 270C
    Nozzle = any size
    Print speed = ABS speeds
    Retraction = .5mm/.1mm nozzle or for a .5mm nozzle = 2.5mm
    Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 95C
    Cold = Clean BuildTak or PEI heated to 90C

    Mine was 270 nozzle, 100 bed, but it worked OK with bed temps down to 75. I wouldn't trust a larger print like that :) Run the bed hotter.

    It did not warp to any great extent at those settings and it has a really high heat deflection temperature as well (better than ABS). Strength overall is as good or slightly better too.
     
  8. jonrobertd

    jonrobertd New Member

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    Thank you. Hair spray, glue, blue tape, or squeaky clean glass? Oh, I guess with the factory .4mm nozzle run 2mm retraction?
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Any of the above :)

    I originally printed it on painters tape, but since have moved to bare glass with hairspray (and frankly the hairspray is a panacea I am convinced). Standard retraction is fine it needs nothing special in those regards. With the exception of (not) warping and curling it prints a lot like ABS.
     
  10. jonrobertd

    jonrobertd New Member

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    Excellent, I love hairspray, so easy to apply and clean. ABS slurry sucks to clean off, but had to try it too, just can't stop warp.
     
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  11. Huski

    Huski New Member

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    After messing around for ages trying to get ABS to print properly, if for no other reason than I bought 2 rolls and am loathe to let them go to waste..... I have managed to sort out the warping and bed adhesion issues ... On my printer at least ! Hopefully the following will of use to someone......
    I have used 2 pieces of 3mm acrylic sheet ( 1 front and 1 back ) hinged with a pair of little printed 'lift off hinge' found on Thingiverse, to keep the temperature fairly constant inside the case ..... It works a treat, only issue is you can't print large objects as the doors get in the way.
    Extruder Temperature 250 deg C and Bed Temperature 90 deg C.... Fan OFF. The glue I use is nothing short of amazing .... Made by a company called Kores ( in Italy I think ) Chameleon .... It is a glue stick intended for craft use, weird purple Colour, water based and non toxic. Really easy to clean off the bed with a damp cloth. I smear it on a cold bed ... Smooth with my finger if necessary and print. I am yet to have an ABS print come loose during printing or distort to any degree.... I don't forcibly remove the finished piece after printing but rather wait for everything to cool down naturally, when the bed temp gets around 40 deg it pops off the bed all by itself.



    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  12. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    You might be interested in this as a better solution so you can print larger parts.

    https://printedsolid.com/collections/accessories-and-upgrades/products/robo-3d-safety-enclosure-kit
     
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  13. Mtnbike03

    Mtnbike03 New Member

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    I started out mainly printing with ABS and have recently gotten away from it. I've printed quite a few parts with it and 222F and 90F (+/- a couple degrees) for extruder and bed temperature has worked the best for me with Hatchbox ABS. With that said I pretty much always see some degree of warpage.

    Recently I started using some Taulman3d filament and have been really impressed. I needed a filament for work that is FDA approved for a prototype I made to handle catheters and stents. Their Guidel!ne filament, which is a PETG based, is the easiest I've printed with and also the most dimensional stable. With their recommended settings I was within 0.002" on my external dimensions for a calibration part I designed. As a result I ordered some of their Alloy 910 filament and some Hatchbox PETG for personal use. I'm printing my first Hatcbox PETG part right now and so far it's pretty similar to my experience with the Taulman stuff but cheaper. Overall I'd suggest trying some other materials than ABS if you can and also trying some different software like Simplify3d. Mattercontrol is good for learning the basics and making simple parts but is really pretty limited with what you can do. I've seen much higher quality prints since switching.
     
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