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Simplify3d and RoboR2 with USB

Discussion in 'Software' started by CarAudioFab, Nov 13, 2017.

  1. CarAudioFab

    CarAudioFab Member

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    Hey all,

    I'd like to use my RoboR2 purely with a USB. I'll be using Simplify3d to export gcode to a USB.

    A few questions:

    Simplify3d now has a profile for this printer, but it seems to double some of the work. For instance the auto bed routine runs twice. Should I delete that from the starting script on s3d? Can I delete the whole startup script as the robo seems to do this regardless?

    The robo has the z offset set via the wizard. Do I need to plug these values into s3d to work right or will it work right on its own? My first test print had the nozzle way too close so filament wouldn't feed. Its hard for me to understand what is baked into the printer software and what s3d is actually controlling.

    For temperature does the robo pull this from the filament profile regardless ir will it use the values in s3d? My first print showed a set point on the robo of 190C but was running at 230 (despite s3d also having 190)
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

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    Your call. I leave Simplify with empty startup scripts and let each printer handle that in OctoPrint. You could go the other way.

    You let the Robo handle this. Do not try to deal with this in the slicer -- that way lies madness.

    That 230 is the priming line and it is hardcoded in the OctoPrint startup script. you can eliminate it or live with it... the S3D specified temperatures will take over once the startup is done... or should.

    I eliminated it because 230 is silly and the priming line is the same as the skirt (and we always use a skirt :).
     
    Ed Ferguson, CarAudioFab and Geof like this.
  3. CarAudioFab

    CarAudioFab Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Yeah i'd like to get rid of the priming line. Is there a write up for how to do that?
     
  4. CarAudioFab

    CarAudioFab Member

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    Just adding my findings here. While you can control the Z-Offset via S3D it is much better to control via the machine as stated.

    I was sort of foolish but this may help people making the transition from a printer where the Z-Offset is set via the slicer. Don't do that with the R2. You may find that when you run the Z-Offset wizard on the machine itself that the nozzle is still too close to the bed. In order to alleviate this go into utilities and then "EEPROM" (I think that's it, typing from memory right now). One of the settings is probe offset. You can modify the Z offset value here. The more negative the number the further the bed will be from the nozzle. (Please correct me if I'm wrong).

    In other words I had a Z-Offset of -8.0 and the machine was clicking due to too much back pressure on the filament. I adjusted to -8.25 and the issue went away and first layer looks much more uniform and not "smushed". Again, this was all done on the machine itself.

    Hopefully that helps if anyone searches this thread with similar questions. :)
     
  5. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    I think you have it backwards. I think adding more in the “negative” Z axis (offset) gets you closer to the bed (ie, raises the bed, and reduces the distance).

    It would seem to fit with what Robo says in their online documents:
    If your Offset seems close but prints are still not sticking, you can decrease the value by 0.1mm - 0.2mm and try again. Generally only small changes may be needed.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  6. BJS227

    BJS227 Member

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    im thinking about Simplfied 3d. Is it worth it or the the cura that comes with the machine the same?
     
  7. JeffreyB

    JeffreyB Member

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    Actually he had it correct. The more negative the number, the further away the bed is from the nozzle, the less negative (more positive) the number, the closer the bed is to the nozzle....

    Jeff
     
  8. usafitz

    usafitz Member

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    Worth it!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
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