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Solved Smallest realistic text from 0.2mm resolution

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by OutsourcedGuru, Jul 3, 2017.

  1. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Just working on a project so that I can print some realistic-looking/feeling metallic coins from the Robo C2.

    * Hoping that it will really look and feel like metal
    * Hoping that the coin will have enough weight to it so that you can't immediately tell it's plastic
    * Hoping that the size of each coin roughly matches what we're used to seeing in real life

    Just designied the face of a Harry Potter—inspired Knut coin, the lowest denomination in wizarding currency. My approach would be to go hollow-center and place a standard penny inside for weight. The outer diameter I chose matches a quarter.

    First print looks good from a material standpoint and after removing the supports, the penny fits perfectly and is flush to the z-top. Unfortunately, the raised lettering and such are major fail. I'm really trying to push the envelope with respect to resolution and the 0.2mm isn't cutting it. Or maybe it's Autodesk Fusion 360 + Cura, I dunno. I am using the Robo C2 profile and the custom Shaxon Copper-Infused 1.75 material file. It's possible that this is a temperature thing but probably not. Apologies that I don't have photos at the moment, had to dash off to work this morning. (I ran two printouts to confirm the same results.)

    I guess I'll scale things out to 2x all-around and see if I can see better results in the pulled lettering. What's sad is that Autodesk failed over and over again to pull the lettering with a radius that wasn't zero.

    Once I've got the surface features happily printing and both halves of the coin, I intend to then assemble some (glue gun with the possibility of using the same PLA in it), light sanding around the circumference, inside the magnetic tumbler we discussed earlier with the copper media (glued magnet/penny sandwiches plus copper-clad screws), an optional art copper brush-on and finally, a cathode-penny electrolysis bath.

    I wonder what's the smallest raised lettering you can do with this printer. Any examples?
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    small details = needing smaller nozzle.

    .4 extrusion width is .4, anything under and you'll run into issues. If your printing small details get a smaller nozzle (ex. .25 nozzle) but be warned filled materials and small nozzles dont love eachother. If running filled you should consider a hardened nozzle as well.
     
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  3. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    On the topic of nozzles, is there somewhat of a standard for those? What would we be looking for for our R2s/C2s?
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    They both use a Hexagon hotend so you can use E3DV6 nozzles.
     
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  5. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    :facepalm: Of course that's it. Each coin prints in a hurry now; I won't care if it takes four times the duration to print one using a smaller opening.

    So, we're talking MK8 (Hexagon) 1.75--compatible and looking for 0.25mm nozzle... or smaller, sleuthing this a bit...

    Kamo is out of their 0.2mm
    OctagonStar 0.2mm
    Wisamic variety pack 0.2/0.3/0.4/0.5
    ...or the Jerrill.com 0.1mm but I'm not sure if the C2 can slow down the extrusion rate with its gearset to match that
    tinyplafrog3[1].png


    On a sidenote, I've just discovered Autodesk 123D Catch for a better attempt at the wizard's face... but they've discontinued it as of January.
     
    #5 OutsourcedGuru, Jul 3, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2017
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  7. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Saw that (eventually). Yep, yep...

    So I'll print some lousy 0.4mm versions for now while awaiting a new nozzle and play around with post-processing techniques.
     
  8. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, now got hardened 0.4 and 0.25 nozzles ordered along with some filled filaments to play with.
     
  9. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    The copper and brass both look beautiful from a material standpoint, albeit with a dull matte appearance so far. Haven't tested this yet, but the electroplating will need a nice conductive surface to begin so I'll need to test what I have now with the multimeter and check the resistance. Typically, you flash a layer or two of something easy and then go for the final finish. Fortunately, I have a handful of trashy silver Olympic commemorative coins (~$14) I can use and a bagful of train-squashed pennies (not that it matters much).
     
  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Almost all Autodesk 123D users have moved on to Autodesk Fusion 360.
     
  11. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    So what do we use now, Autodesk Remake? (multiple photos -> generated mesh)
     
  12. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    I bought some copper, wood, carbon and magnetic steel. Will be interesting.
     
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  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @OutsourcedGuru I think most of the people here have not done much 3D scanning. The products out there for consumers are notoriously bad and the resulting scans require a lot of work to make them printable. Resolution is too low if you increase it, you run the risk of taking hours to complete any edit within your mesh.

    Besides, it is so much easier to deal with an actual 3D model than the outer shell only mesh.
     
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  14. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Both Fab Lab and the San Diego public library have those 3D scanners. So you're saying that they produce something that's not worth the effort?
     
  15. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Oh man, I'd love to get my hands on that magnetic steel version. The things I could do with that. ha
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If they have one you can use without spending your own money to purchase one I'd say go for it. It may fit your needs perfect. I have a print farm and I have zero scanners. Even high end commercial ones like the Pharo arnt good enough in my opinion.
     
  17. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    I'm basically trying to get a facial profile that's suitable for these coins, similar to some of this approach. Autodesk dropped 123D Catch so I'm looking for options here. My attempts so far at converting a flat image into raised mesh isn't working out.
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    never used 123D catch ? I have no idea my friend. might want to reach out to an organic modeler (someone that uses something like zbrush) and see if they can help you out
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Depends on WHO is generating the effort and what that is worth to them.

    We have a M&F that we never use (bought it on sale cheap) because what it generates is invariably an unprintable mess. You must clean it up (often a LOT) in your 3D CAD software. I have tried 4 different consumer priced ones (not all the same brand) and that is pretty much "the way it is" in that price range.

    We can spend less time creating a 3D model (that actually works) from scratch than we spend scanning and cleaning up a model...
     
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  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That Matter and Form is the only one I havent tried. I thought about picking one up once because it was so cheap but never could really justify it based off all the other ones I've used that didn't work lol.
     

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