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Struggling with Colorfabb

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by gravityisweak, Dec 1, 2015.

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  1. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    you're a bit on the cold side. I'm actually surprised you even got anything out of the nozzle. XT needs to be closer to 230 minimum. I typically run it at 250.
    Going to high infill typically creates its own set of problems. Forces from thermal effects become significantly higher so warpage becomes an issue. You also have to have all of your extrusion settings perfectly calibrated or you can get grinding.

    With cura, you want to just go slow on the infill. With other slicers that allow for an infill where you have the same pattern every layer (like honeycomb) you can go a lot faster.
     
    #21 Printed Solid, Dec 22, 2015
  2. Gabriel Moore

    Gabriel Moore Member

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    [​IMG]

    Slowed down the infill speed, bumped the temp up to 240. Think it was way to low. Moved the infill to 50%. Only added 6 minutes to this print. But so far. Looking ok.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
     
    #22 Gabriel Moore, Dec 22, 2015
  3. Gabriel Moore

    Gabriel Moore Member

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    Ok. Next run I'll go back to 20% and temp up to 250 and see. Still need to get the e3d installed. This is a learning hobby. Just glad this forum and you guys all exist.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
     
    #23 Gabriel Moore, Dec 22, 2015
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  4. Gabriel Moore

    Gabriel Moore Member

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    OK new problem. I'm trying to get a video uploaded. I assume this might be the infill being to high like you mentioned. The top layer looks like silly putty when printing. I have the cooling fan on high. It also looks like the layers are growing around the print head.

     
    #24 Gabriel Moore, Dec 22, 2015
  5. gravityisweak

    gravityisweak Member

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    50% infill is quite a lot unless you need really strong parts. Try something more like 15%

    Also, Gabriel, just as a test. Cut your speed in half while printing just out of curiosity. I'm wondering with mine, maybe like yours, the heat buildup from printing so hot might be too much for the fan to handle when the printer is putting out a lot of plastic really fast.
     
    #25 gravityisweak, Dec 22, 2015
  6. Gabriel Moore

    Gabriel Moore Member

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    I am half way thru a larger keychain print and looks good using a 20% infill. I am going to install my new e3d after christmas and also install a dual fan setup.
     
    #26 Gabriel Moore, Dec 22, 2015
  7. Gabriel Moore

    Gabriel Moore Member

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    [​IMG]

    First successful Colorfabb print. I think it was the retraction settings and infill speed. This forum rocks.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
     
    #27 Gabriel Moore, Dec 22, 2015
  8. Gabriel Moore

    Gabriel Moore Member

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    I love how my phone posts photos upside down.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
     
    #28 Gabriel Moore, Dec 22, 2015
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Would not want to presume for @Printed Solid, but I am rather glad I still exist.
    :)

    Glad you got it sorted.
     
    #29 mark tomlinson, Dec 23, 2015
  10. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    LOL. Yes, I am also glad to exist.

    I think we have two different things being discussed in this thread. PLA/PHA temps and settings and XT temps and settings are very different. PLA/PHA is PLA/PHA and XT is a copolyester.

    @Gabriel Moore can you just clarify for me: Are you set with PLA/PHA and now figuring out XT?
     
    #30 Printed Solid, Dec 23, 2015
  11. Gabriel Moore

    Gabriel Moore Member

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    I have no issues printing with robo3d brand pla. I have issues with Colorfabb XT. I purchased a black and white spool from you a few months ago and never had luck till last night. But only with a larger print.

    Trying to print the small makerbot on the robo results in the silly putty effect i posted in the video above.
     
    #31 Gabriel Moore, Dec 23, 2015
  12. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Ah, OK. So, we've got mixed advice between PLA/PHA and XT in this thread so hopefully you guys are able to keep it straight. Both are different materials from the Robo3D brands. PLA/PHA is a little different and XT is A LOT different.

    XT is not great for small nicknackey prints. Not saying it can't be done, but there is a tricky balance between too cold/too hot, not enough cooling/too much cooling. It's very useful for functional parts or other pieces that need to take some abuse though.

    The silly putty issue is a cooling problem. The challenge is that due to the high melt strength of the material, you're printing much higher than the melt temperature. So, heat dwell related issues (which is why you get the silly putty thing) are more of a problem. Try running cooler for that part or try printing two at once.

    As an FYI, people wanting to use XT for parts outside of where it really works easily is a big part of why NGEN was developed. I'm expecting to be not online for the next 3-4 days after Xmas, but will check in by Monday. (also moving this thread to printing filament)
     
    #32 Printed Solid, Dec 24, 2015
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  13. Gabriel Moore

    Gabriel Moore Member

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    @Printed Solid - Thanks for everything, and hope you have a great holiday weekend.
     
    #33 Gabriel Moore, Dec 24, 2015
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