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Taking the base power from 12v to 24v

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Rick Collins, May 25, 2014.

  1. Rick Collins

    Rick Collins Member

    Nov 20, 2013
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    Howdy all,

    I have heard rumbles on here that some have replaced out the PSU that came stock to allow for more juice to heaters and LEDs etcand I was wondering.....

    Would one of you amazing people share some of the how to with us not so bright ones?

    Basically I know enough about this stuff to pull out my credit card and point and buy.... I'm not so good with the "you need, this, this and this... And they all go together like this."

    I have the new y axis upgrade just arrived so figure I give blobby (that's the printers name:) a full body make over so it's not such an ugly cousin when the R2 comes out and R1 is pushed aside.

    Look it's not his fault he won't be cool, but with your help we can get him close :)
  2. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

    Feb 20, 2013
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    this is how i did my wiring for 24v, but this is only wired for 24v heated bed. it does not power the ramps board. I chose to have two separate power supplies. One dedicated for the heated bed. 12v for other stuff. http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/heatbed-and-bed-leveling.841/page-2#post-5466

    However, the ramps taurino board is capable of handling the higher voltage, so all you would need to do is wire in 24v where the original 12v power was wired to. But also keep in mind you'll need to upgrade the heater to 24v, fans to 24v, (unless you have some sort of convertor to step it down to 12v)etc... anything what was originally powered by 12v needs to be looked at to be sure you dont burn something out.
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Mar 11, 2013
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    I ran mine off a 24v power supply with a 24v to 12v converter. It's not necessary as cambo mentioned, though in order for the Arduino to get 5v off of 24v you need to cut a trace and power the arduino off USB. You would also need to get 24v cartridge heaters for your nozzle. To avoid doing these I went with 2 voltages.

    The kapton heater has ~1.2-1.5ohm resistance. When you supply 24v to that it pulls around 20A or 480W of power needed. This means you need a power supply capable or putting out around 600W of power to accomodate the HBP and the other 12v components. Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mean-Well-M...051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item565aad191b

    This is the converter I used: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PSWNV480...id=1401030715&sr=8-2&keywords=pyle+24v+to+12v It's kinda overkill for the application but I bought a different one that didn't work so I went big.

    Because of the high amp draw of the kapton heater you need to use a 40A relay to not blow it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FAA1WP2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    An alternative option is to replace the kapton heater for something meant for 24v.

    This one is larger and maximizes the build volume: http://www.ultibots.com/24v-kapton-heater-200mm-x-250mm/

    Then you can use this power supply: http://www.ultibots.com/24v-400w-power-supply-s-400-24/

    and this converter: http://www.ultibots.com/24v-12v-converter/

    Then you can use a lower amp relay like this: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-SSR-25D...UTF8&qid=1401030930&sr=8-1&keywords=ssr+relay

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