Terrible clog during printing (possible destroyed hot end)

Has anybody ever had this happen before? My print was going fine at first. I had used hairspray to secure it. After a few layers, the print broke loose from the print bed and then the hot end got jammed and for the rest of the job, filament came bubbling out of every part of the hot end. I returned to find it looking like this. I have yet to start cutting away material, but I think my hot end is going to be screwed. Anybody have any suggestions?

 

I agree with mark. Once that stupid boot gets filament all over it, it's not easy to get it going again. You can heat it up and clean it but it's going to take a long time. I would just buy another one or just upgrade to the E3D V6 hotend.

 

Experience is the best teacher, so here goes. I just went thru this.
The original Hex that came with the Robo is junk. Hay, I call them as I see them.

What happened is the filament leaked out and pushed the 'rubber' boot down.
The boot knocked the print loose and the filament kept leaking.
It will happen again if you clean it up. Junk it!
Get a new Hex kit, disassemble it and check every part. I had to ream the new nozzle with a .40 drill.
Take the threaded tube that connects the hot end to the finned cooling Hex tower and plate the threads to the cooling tower portion with Permatex ultra copper gasket maker. Screw it into the finned tower tight and screw in the locking screw in the side of the tower. Now screw in the nozzle about 1 turn from full in. Next screw the hot end onto the connecting threaded tube until the tower is aligned.
" That is the nozzle is facing the front of the printer and the flat side of the finned tower is facing left".
Now tighten the nozzle against the threaded tubing in the hot end. It has to be TIGHT, but it doesn't have to bottom up on the hot end. OK now forget the boot, don't use it! put the thermistor in the small hole and bend the wires in the direction you want them to go. place the gasket maker nozzle over the hole and squeeze the material in and around the thermistor. Let it dry overnite, then put a layer over the side of the hotend. Install the heater and lock it in with the set screw. bend the wires over the thermistor area and add one last layer of gasket maker. OH, you might have to add an inch of wire length to the heater leads.
This worked for me and I have many long runs with no problems. Good luck, Frank
P.S. Leave the brass guide in the top of the finned tower.