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Solved Thingy making loud noises and not extruding

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Cindy, Jun 6, 2017.

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  1. Cindy

    Cindy New Member

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    This is for R1+

    I have a link to a video but the forum said my post looked "spam-like" and i cannot post the link.

    The round wheel that you turn to make the filiment come out is jerking back and forth and it is not extruding. Making a jamming noise.

    While fiddling around with the cables I noticed that the noise went away when I adjusted a cable (it has rainbow colored wires) that plugs into the motor. A few days later the noise came back and I unplugged that cable during a print and the noise went away. Plugged it back in and it came back. I then examined the cable to see if the wires were not screwed up and the green wire came unplugged. So, I can try to solder it on (pain in the ass) or I can buy another cable, hoping that the new cable will fix it. I hope it's not expensive. I don't want to fix the wire.
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Try posting your video in the post following this one.One of the mods might be able to fix whatever held it up as spam
     
  3. Cindy

    Cindy New Member

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  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Cindy I am not 100% sure, but it looked like it was making the noise during Y Axis movement. Take a look under the print bed to see if there is not something caught in the movement causing it to bind. The bed will just lift off the bed supports since it is only held in place by four magnets.
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I see the large and small gear not turning (I think that may be the noise your referring to?). If its just a cable you need I'd hit up Robo for a warranty cable. I actually have come across this alot, the zip ties above the extruder on the R1+ dont act as a strain relief but actually cause strain and wires to wear out. I'd suggest (before doing any of the above) that you ensure the nozzle isn't to close to the bed while its trying to print (i can see a space in the video, but likely wouldn't be able to :D )
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yeah, I think @Geof is correct. now I see that the movement of X and Y are just coincidental to the noise. I have had this happen on my printer also, I think sometimes, under certain circumstances the Stepper driver and Marlin get confused and it vibrates the extruder stepper. I think the default practice of specifying a unreachable high rate of acceleration for the motor contributes. What I have found is that when this happens if you shut your printer completely down, including removing the USB cable and then replugging everything in and turning on your printer (basically a complete printer reboot) clears up the problem.
     
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  7. Cindy

    Cindy New Member

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    @Geof about the nozzle being too close, I have been in the process of fixing my z-axis and I think I've got it right now at -0.5. The video is before I fixed it.

    One thing I did not mention is that I am printing from the SD card slot on the rep rap smart controller. I stopped using the usb cable completely several weeks ago because it broke off. it was very unstable to begin with and I moved the printer to a different room and must have pulled on the cable. The usb circuit board actually snapped right off. I can't remember if that strange noise happened before or after that happened. I didn't correlate it because it seemed like a cable problem.

    I will hit them up for a replacement cable.
     
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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    From inside the printer? That would not be good.
     
  9. Cindy

    Cindy New Member

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    @mark tomlinson yep...thats what I was thinking. I thought the SD card was a long shot but it works. It gave me lots of nice prints. You would think the printer is pretty confused though. Not having the event viewer is troublesome.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, you can replace the Arduino Mega 2560 and reload the firmware if you want :)
    Clone boards are not expensive.
     
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  11. Cindy

    Cindy New Member

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    I am not within the 6-mo warranty period. Can someone tell me what the motor cable is called so I can buy a knockoff? I guess I could take a trip to frys tomorrow or if someone could recommend a website I would appreciate it.

    Thanks!
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  13. Cindy

    Cindy New Member

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    I bought the arduino mega 2560 board from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJJKSU6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I looked inside the printer and it looks like there are 2 arduino cards, the 2560 being on the bottom. I am wondering how to reload the firmware. I did modify the firmware for the ec3 extruder upgrade I did and also for the rep rap smart controller. Do I need to put that (my version) on to the card? Or, does this particular card have different firmware than what is on the 2nd card (the one on top)?. I am assuming to put the firmware on it I need to plug it in to my laptop and use some program to flash it onto the card.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  15. Cindy

    Cindy New Member

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    I replaced the bad cable and the weird jamming noise still exists. So, my next step is to replace the Mega 2560 board. If I can connect via usb cable I will at least be able to see the terminal window in Mattercontrol. The knockoff Mega 2560 board I bought a few days ago has the error led blinking and it won't even connect to my laptop. So, that one is being returned. I will try again in a few days when I get the replacement board. I bought a different brand this time.
     
    #15 Cindy, Jun 10, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2017
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  16. Cindy

    Cindy New Member

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    My painful journey continues...

    OK that's too dramatic but seriously, I am so ready to buy a new one. I have storm trooper heads and other important things to print.

    I replaced the arduino board and flashed it with the same firmware that was on the old card. Now I can use it on my computer. The noise is actually getting even more annoying. It really sounds like there is something stuck in there somewhere. I didn't try this yet, but before I replaced the card the noise stopped when I unplugged the stepper motor cable (which I also replaced).

    Here is a video of the print:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwvsNREBkQl6WjEwdGxpcER1elU

    I attached the print log from the MatterControl terminal. It looks like normal gibberish to me. I also attached the gcode of the print.

    Please help. Thanks.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it is just extruding in the air (raise it off the bed and tell it to extrude 100mm) does it make the noise?

    It is probably* the gears themselves making the racket due to retraction. That might be another test -- disable retraction and try a test print.

    It certainly sounds like a mechanical binding (or sloppiness) in the extruder mechanism mechanically.




    *a scientific guess from the video
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not that the extruder will ever be quiet, but that one is making a good bit of extra noise.
     
  19. Cindy

    Cindy New Member

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    How do I turn off retraction?

    I see:
    - Length on Move 3mm
    - Length on Tool Change 10mm
    - Speed: 30 mm/s
    - Z Lift .5mm
    - Extra Length On Restart 0mm
    - Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction 20mm
    - Retract When Changing Islands checked
    - Minimum Extrusion Requiring Retraction 0mm
    - Wipe After Retract unchecked
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I do not know what software you are using. Most slicers have a section for retraction.
    Most of them have a checkbox to enable/disable it and then if enabled you can set specific values.

    Write them down first in case you want to roll back... but frankly retraction is a good thing to have on for most filaments. If the extruder is noisy when retracting that is a mechanical issue.
     
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