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Time for Aluminum bed.

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by KTMDirtFace, Sep 5, 2016.

  1. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    I would look at a SSR that is output rated at least 120vac @ 5 amps, the input control should be 12vdc.........note many have ranges such as: control input 5 - 24v with output 100 - 200vac...these are numbers, I made-up, but you get the idea......use thermal compound on the SSR & mount to metal..........I am presently working with the PCB style heaters but still in the infant stage. I think a kapton heater & aluminum is the way to go...we will see............Hey, Take Care..........Jimmy

    sidebar, careful with the AC on the heater.....also, silicon stranded 18 - 16 awg wire is all you need....that heavy gauge wire isn't really required but will hold up better with the movement.....
     
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  2. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    I run a 360W 120V heater on the stock power supply and a DC/AC SSR. A 360W heater gets to 110C in three minutes and I'm using 6mm glass.
     
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  3. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    @WZ9V That is a very good combo, The DC/AC SSR is a good choice......not sure which Part# you chose, but the range I mentioned above will assure the correct one is chosen. I am using the Boro glass now & will try the PCB heater with the glass & al. Bed. Personally, my guess is a silicon heater with a lightweight aluminum bed will be my end choice. One advantage for me, 'may' be, by using a PCB/AL combo....I can drill & tap the AL plate to securely snug the PCB mechanically. With a silicon heatsink sandwiched between for heat transfer. In addition, I want to modify the PCB into two sections.......center half heats only, or entire heater for larger prints..........very cool to see the different choices.................Take Care
     
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  4. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    #24 KTMDirtFace, Sep 14, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2016
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  6. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    KT, answered your PM, added to thread also..........

    That SSR will work, the price is right, that's for sure......your bed will draw about 3 amps only with a residential voltage of 115vac. So with the 115vac from your house & not the 12vdc power supply for the bed....your DC supply will be running a lot cooler.

    You may need to look at increasing the AC fuse size on the robo........by another 3 amps. Not sure how robo handles power protection...R1 has a switch & power inlet externally.....I'll pull bottom & chk power protector...
     
  7. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    So it looks like, the 115vac comes into the power inlet, feeds the power switch, which goes to the 12v power supply....period.

    What I would do, without putting much thought is: locate the terminal of the switch, non hot side but switched side......and tap into it.
    Now, run a new wire to a new fuseholder (input), generally drill a new 1/2" hole rear of robo. Install a 5 amp fuse in holder. Solder another wire from fuseholder (output) to SSR AC output. The other SSR AC output will wire to the heater. The SSR DC input will connect to the Ramps.

    Of course, the other wire of the heater will terminate to Nuetral.
     
    #27 jim3Dbot, Sep 14, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2016
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is a fuse in that connector for the A/C cord.. just saying.
     
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  9. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Hey Mark, Good call, missed seein' it in the dark area........it's under that piece of metal......I'm going to pull it, chk its value...it may require increasing the amperage.......with the bed heater mod......the robo will require more front end current (AC) but less rear end current, (12v)........
     
  10. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Just pulled fuseholder, removed whole thing.......fuse drawer very stuck......anyways, there's a 5amp fuse in the R1.......the new 120v bed will draw about 3 amps from the 5 amp fuse. That leaves 2 amps AC side remaining. I'm not sure what the stock heater draws, never chk'ed it, should of, but if it is, for example 120w...then it would require 10amps DC, which would translate to 1 amp AC side of power supply......you would of then removed 1 amp draw from AC side of the power supply, removing the stock heater, then added 3 amps to the AC side, adding the new heater..........thus adding 2 amps to the 5 amp fuse side..........you may blow the fuse....if you do, increase that fuse a few amps with another 250v style fuse..........I guess........ DSC08892.JPG DSC08893.JPG DSC08894.JPG
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    AWESOME!
    We needed those photos :)
     
  12. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!

    It will probably be a month before the bed heater gets here from the slow boat. So i'm printing on a fleks 3d plate for now thats covering up my chipped glass.
     
  13. Kewtdz

    Kewtdz New Member

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    I'm doing the same thing with PEI. The only issue is the areas that have chips underneath are starting to bow/deform causing a slight uneven surface. If anyone is looking for a temporary solution it is working somewhat well while I wait for parts.
     
  14. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know what size the stock magnets are for the bed?

    Need to order some up. If not no big deal i'll measure mine this week sometime.
     
  15. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    #35 danzca6, Sep 19, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2016
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  16. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Sweet yea, have a harbor freight close by.

    Thanks
     
  17. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Picked up some of those magnets from home depot, they are a little smaller than the stock ones so you can sorta slide the bed around a bit. I don't think it will be a problem? the print head would really have to slam into or drag pretty hard on a print to move it I think.

    Waiting on heater from china
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #37 KTMDirtFace, Sep 20, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2016
  18. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah the aluminum is professor a big weight difference as well. Maybe bigger magnets might have been in order. Per chance have you weighed both you aluminum plate and the glass to see the difference? Of course you don't have the heater yet but just curious.
     
  19. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Hey @KTMDirtFace since this thread is tl:dr, is the plate you are using MIC6 or is it just 6000 series?
     
  20. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    6061 - T6

    Used the magnets you linked. Gonna find bigger diameter ones. ( ones you linked at home depot are 8mm not 10. ). Edit: Ha turns out I have a bunch of 10mm ones I forgot I had.

    32 OZ for stock bed with heater and the wires.

    29 OZ for aluminum bed no heater no wires.
     
    #40 KTMDirtFace, Sep 21, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2016
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