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Titan Aero mod nearly finished...

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by JJ Medina, Aug 7, 2019.

  1. JJ Medina

    JJ Medina New Member

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    Hey all,

    After about 2 months of procrastination, I've finally finished installing the Titan Aero in my R1+! Everything is still a little rough, but here's a picture for posterity:

    [​IMG]

    So the first challenge was finding a carriage that I liked. I went with this one from Thingiverse 2730539

    The second challenge was installing all of the Titan parts onto the carriage. I went by pictures because there were no instructions on the Thingiverse page, but some fiddling + a helpful maker (big ups to MentalUproar) got the job done.

    Finally I got to the wiring. I managed to get it all running and wired in, but fudged the wires for one of the blower motors. Leave it to me to mess up something so easy. I also had problems with the endstops mistakenly reporting triggered, but a simple un-plugging and reconnection seemed to fix it (suspicious emoji here)

    For now, I just zip-tied everything but once the printer is up and running again I'll put the wire chain and other mods back on.

    Next I need to work on updating the firmware. This carriage build uses the slimline motor from e3d, which I love, but it clicks and i need to fiddle with and adjust the steps/mm before I get a good benchy printed.

    Big Question:
    So I contacted the maker again with a question. The way the new carriage is designed, the hot-end nozzle sits just under the base of the carriage- bringing it much closer to the x-axis rods than the stock setup. This means that at it's lowest Z range the tip of the hot-end is still several mm off of the print bed. I'm not sure what the other people rocking this carriage did to solve this:
    • physically raise the entire print bed on an R1+
    • use some kind of physical shim
    • custom z-axis rods?
    [​IMG]
     
    albert3d and WheresWaldo like this.
  2. albert3d

    albert3d Member

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    So if you had the integrated leadscrews for the Z instead of using the coupler, you would have more room for the carriage to go down and the nozzle to still probe off the bead. Wonder if the designer of this had the R1+ and was a non issue for them. That or using something like an IR sensor for bed probing instead of the dual endstop method.

    https://www.partsbuilt.com/r1-stepper-motor-z-axis-robo-3d/
     
  3. JJ Medina

    JJ Medina New Member

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    @albert3d thanks! That sounds about right... I saw in the images that the creator of the carriage is using an IR sensor; it didn't seem necessary to me but now I see why he didn't have the problem I do. I think I will invest in the integrated lead screws instead! I see some on Amazon and it looks like there are some tutorials on youtube...
     
    albert3d likes this.
  4. albert3d

    albert3d Member

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    One of the best upgrades I did on my r1 was to add the upgrade for the leadscrews. There is a thread or two on here about sourcing and installing them.
     

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