1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!
  2. Please message Harry if you experience any technical difficulties while using the forum. Thank you.

Solved uneven bed plate, is it fixable

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by zemjw, Jul 23, 2017.

  1. zemjw

    zemjw New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2017
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    3
    I got my robo c2 a few days ago, but haven't managed to print anything yet. It prints at the front of the bed, but not at the back. Looking through the forum for posts suggests it's just the base plate. However, my problem seems to be that whatever the base plate rests on isn't flat (not sure of the correct term)

    pics, as they say, or it didn't happen

    first pic shows the spirit level on the under plate/base plate support(??)

    [​IMG]

    second pic shows how much I have to raise the base plate to get it level. It's over 1mm, so I don't think paper shims will do. I unscrewed one of the bolts to see if there was enough spare thread, but it didn't quite make it.

    [​IMG]

    Third pic is more of the same

    [​IMG]

    Does this look fixable, or should I just box it up and send it back to amazon? The printer also has the "running out of filament every 10 seconds" problem, but the sloped plate seems more pressing.

    Thanks for any suggestions
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson Volunteer Admin
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    16,407
    Likes Received:
    5,317
    Your call. If you don't want to fiddle with it, get them to replace it.

    Bear in mind that the "level" that matters is not actual gravity, but the position of the bed with respect to the print head -- those need to be on the same plane :)

    Get rid of the construction level -- it won't help.
    You can microadjust the level by adding layers of tape on top of the round magnet posts the bed mounts to (pop it off, add a layer, test). I ended up with 6-10 layers on three of the posts to get it level and then marked the plate so I knew exactly which side was "front"
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson Volunteer Admin
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    16,407
    Likes Received:
    5,317
    actually if your filament run-out sensor it bad too, send it back and get a new one...
     
  4. zemjw

    zemjw New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2017
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    3
    My first tests were with the firmware that came with the printer (1.5 something). I updated to the latest (1.7 something) and that has fixed the bed levelling issue.

    I thought it had fixed the filament sensor issue as well, but it only made it appear about a minute later than usual. I've followed the suggestion in another thread and disabled the filament chek plugin in the web interface. It's not ideal, but easier than sending it back.

    It was helpful to know that the bed slope didn't really matter, thanks for that. So much to learn, but at least I've now printed something off :D
     
    Geof and mark tomlinson like this.
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    4,502
    Likes Received:
    1,507
    Pictures or it didnt happen ;) (the print)
     
  6. zemjw

    zemjw New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2017
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    3
    It was just benchy that I printed as a test. It was great to watch it appear, although it took longer than I'd expected. I knew 3d printing wasn't quick, but there's nothing like taking two hours to print a small boat to bring that fact home!

    The quality of the print, on the other hand, was well worth waiting for :D
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  7. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2017
    Messages:
    358
    Likes Received:
    72
    The factory may have a problem with installing the filament sensor in the correct location (of the two available). You might try printing something small by first trying to route the filament through the second/other hole in the black box at the back of the printer. If it makes it past the ten-minute mark then just use that hole... unless you want to "field strip" it and move the sensor.
     
  8. robodobo

    robodobo New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2016
    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    7
    I used washers!!

    The print bed in my case was a whopping 0.9mm off -- over 12 cm -- raised in the front as well. That's about 0.4 degrees.

    I measured this by using a piece of paper and by manipulating Z to tighten paper at 4 corners (X, Y). This after a manual "GO ZO" command from the Octoprint interface so as to home the Z-axis. Fortunately, I had two washers lying around of the same thickness. Each went between the aluminum plate and a rear acorn nut. Problem solved.

    (Also, I don't use the automatic leveling.)
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson Volunteer Admin
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    16,407
    Likes Received:
    5,317
    Yea, once you manually level it the auto bed leveling is a waste of time.
     
  10. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2017
    Messages:
    358
    Likes Received:
    72
    In my case, I had to mash down all four magnetic pieces in the corners all the way into their respective holes. One of them likes to edge back out so I make a point of checking each time I remove the bed again.
     
  11. J_Man

    J_Man Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Messages:
    35
    Likes Received:
    15
    I posted in another thread, but basically I got rid of the screws and caps they had. I replaced it with screws and bolts. I have it manually leel now and it prints perfect.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2017
    Messages:
    358
    Likes Received:
    72
    Nicely done. :)

    I bought a cello once and told the guy behind the counter that I wanted four micro-tuners (which go at the bottom of the strings near the bridge). He hesitated and said, "cellos typically only have one micro-tuner for the E string..." or whatever. So I said, "I hate using those fussy tuning pegs at the top so I'd like real control over the tuning of all four strings". And you've just done the same thing here. :D
     
  13. J_Man

    J_Man Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Messages:
    35
    Likes Received:
    15
    If I can get the auto level to turn off and stop throwing it off, I think it'll print great constantly. I'd like a single bolt and a bow tie thumb screw with a spring for the best leveling, but there's no room under the platform in home for that. I'm still messing with the idea though.
     
  14. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2017
    Messages:
    358
    Likes Received:
    72
    A dot of clear nail polish... or lock washers... or pairing the nuts might help out in preventing slippage due to vibrations.

    Adding a wide dial to an embedded nut makes for a finer tuning of the adjustment. The larger the diameter, the better control you have over it. You might be able to 3D print them, to be honest. You suggest that there's no room but using the dial technique and a large enough diameter, the circle just extends maybe 5mm from both edges of the bed and could be accomplished in a fraction of the height that you're thinking of.

    Oh and Mark already suggested that G29 is the autoleveling routine as seen in OctoPrint -> Settings -> GCODE -> Startup
     

Share This Page