1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Answered Uneven prints, filament drag, etc...HELP!

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Frederik Seixas, Sep 10, 2018.

  1. Frederik Seixas

    Frederik Seixas New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2018
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    So I've been messing (I say that playfully) x and z axes but with nominal improvements. As you can see in the attached picture the prints always come out like cotton candy. I believe the bed itself to be unlevel more especially in the 90 to 180 quadrant but I cannot find a video to help me adjust it.

    Aside from that I am willing to do a compete reset of the R1+ printer I'm using so any advice is appreciated off you think it will help (heating levels, firmware suggestions, etc.).[​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
    #1 Frederik Seixas, Sep 10, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2018
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Stringing is often a symptom of to much heat (filament specific, you don't say what kind, but PLA or ABS will string when too hot).

    Not sure how many layers are in the print your photo shows, but if that is say 1 layer or only a few layers then your Z offset is incorrect. You need to adjust it down to get a first layer like described here:

    https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035715-get-your-prints-to-stick-check-your-skirt

    The default (1 mm as specified in the startup gcode block with the M565 Z-1.0 command) is a starting point. Adjust that number (the -1.0) up (more negative) or down (less negative) until your first layer looks like the one in that link.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    So, in summary, check the Z offset and dial back the heat :)
     
  4. Frederik Seixas

    Frederik Seixas New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2018
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks Mark. Sorry for the delay as I only had time this weekend to work on it again.

    So I've had some success now, but only marginally. The issue now is I can get the first layer to print very well, but not the second or higher layers. I'll see if I can get a picture but what ends up happening is the second layer drags on some places and prints mostly unevenly.

    It's so weird. Everything seems to extrude properly and so nicely on the first layer yet the second plus layers are stringy and uneven.

    Advice or thoughts appreciated.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    the main difference between the first layer and second layer would be: Speed, fan speed and temperature. I'd make sure your not printing to hot. Please also be sure to season the hotend by rubbing a light coat of canola oil on the filament and feeding through a few hundred mm.
     
  6. Frederik Seixas

    Frederik Seixas New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2018
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    So as for a little more background, we haven't used our R1 plus in about 10 months and it printed fine before. It only began to show these issues after we let it sit for a while.

    As for the canola oil, you mean that I should dip the tip of the PLA we're using into some canola and then feed it through the extruder for roughly 100mm? Also, the temp we're using for PLA is 190 degree centigrade. Do you have some blanket recommended settings/software we can use like for example second layer size, extruder wisth, etc?

    Thanks again.
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    yes thats the idea. I put canola oil on a paper towel, then rub it on the filament a few hundred mm then extrude those few hundred mm. Like seasoning a cast iron pan.

    I"m unsure what slicing software you use but I typically use a .4 or .42 ext width (some use .48), I typically print pla between 190 and 195 on my R1+ machines. 200 is a number that leads to typically decent prints but not perfect. second layer size? I'm unsure I know what you mean.
     
  8. Frederik Seixas

    Frederik Seixas New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2018
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Sorry, we're using the MatterControl slicer as we have used it in the past to make good prints, and also have tried to use Repetier but with no real success.

    I will definitely try to do some of the aforementioned tips, and what I was asking about with regards to settings is if there was an overall configuration set that is recommended across ALL options. For example, is there a test print (like Benchy the Boat) that you have successfully printed with certain settings and material? Basically I am trying to duplicate someone else's accomplishments so I have a baseline to work with.
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    ah gotya. I dont use mattercontrol. back in 2013/2014 I used it and it was buggy and caused issues. I ended up purchasing simplify 3d so I cant help you there. I think alot of users now adays use Cura (free). Might want to try to download the robo version of cura and see if it does better for you (its free).

    @WheresWaldo is more up to date on the free slicers
     
  10. Frederik Seixas

    Frederik Seixas New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2018
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    I may buy SImply3D as I was seeing some good things about it. When you have a moment, could you share a sample setup/config for a benchmark print of sorts? It would be very appreciated. :)
     
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    I'm not pushing to spend your money :D. Just commenting on what I used after matter control. Should certainly try all the free ones first :D
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    (there are multiple threads in the R1 software sections with my profiles, @mark tomlinson s profiles and a few others. They are .fff files for s3d.both him and I use E3DV6 hotends so our settings will need some tweaking for your specific set up
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Geof likes this.
  14. Frederik Seixas

    Frederik Seixas New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2018
    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks! I'll report back soon.

    On a final note, does Robo offer a repair service? I understand there would be significant costs.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    No clue, but generally speaking they are not too hard to repair yourself (and all the parts are cheap)
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    (plus the user base here is pretty smart cookies that can help you) If your located near one of use a meet up could always be arranged.
     

Share This Page