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Solved Unlevel bed....

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Woodrow Collins, Mar 6, 2017.

  1. Woodrow Collins

    Woodrow Collins New Member

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    Hey! Long time Robo 3d R1 plus owner and just recently purchased a c2. I've noticed when printing the rafts that the bed on the c2 is just not level. Is there any way to level the bed? Attached is an example of what I am talking about. You can see when the raft is being built that the rear corner of the bed sits higher than the front opposing corner. During the raft construction on the high sided portion of the bed the raft is very thin and the feeder gears click as compared to the opposing corners the rafts are not mashed and peal up off the bed. So far the prints seem to be coming out alright, but I fear constant gear grinding will be pretty impactful to the upper assembly.
     

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  2. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Yea this is a major issue alot of people are having. You might want to check and be sure that your bed isnt warped ( thats part of my issue right now ) if it isnt then if the z axis wizard isnt helping any try manually doing it by going into the EEPROM and click on Z axis and you can adjust it manually there check out the thread i posted in troubleshooting. Mark helped me out there.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can try turning the bed faces to all four sides and see if any of them are better.

    In some cases (apparently) it matters which way the plate is mounted and in those instances there is a "front" that needs to be pointing out for the best fit. I will be testing ours later today to see how different it is in all four positions. If there is one that is "best" I can simply going to mark it :)

    You can print a single layer test like the one attached and then see which direction works best.
     

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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, the orientation of the bed plate matters. Not hugely, but enough that it can mess up the first layer.

    We turned and marked outs while doing the circle bed level model and it absolutely made a difference which way was front. More importantly, due the leveling algorithm they are employing, you need to re-run the Z offset wizard after each swap of mounting direction on the bed plate.

    Once we had figured out which was best a manual adjustment of 0.02 was needed to perfect the Z offset. We marked that edge of the plate as front.
     
  5. Woodrow Collins

    Woodrow Collins New Member

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    I've noticed the z offset resetting as well. I have to reset my z offset every print so far so this may explain why. I will try and see if I can adjust my plate and mark it accordingly.

    Thanks
     
  6. Woodrow Collins

    Woodrow Collins New Member

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    Amazing. I'm a robo fan dont get me wrong but this kind of stuff needs fixed if you ask me. Just like the R1, wonderful little machine till I realized that I paid for the glitz of the presentation on the machine. So far the C2 is starting to head that direction as well. The looks are great but once you get past that you start to find flaws. I think my next venture is rebuilding my prusa into a hypercube and I think at that point I may find custom building printers is the way to go for me.

    Thanks for the work @mark tomlinson , looks like all I needed to do is turn the base plate in a different direction. These things should definitely be marked.
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The C2 is a mile or two ahead of the R1+ in terms of features/usability out of the box. However they still suffer from QA issues.

    You can certainly experiment with the build plate, that made a difference for us and we now have one side clearly marked as FRONT.
     
  8. KRGraphicsCG

    KRGraphicsCG Member

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    I am having some issues too with my print bed... when I set it to print it makes this buzzing noise which is kinda bothersome... I may have to reset the bed offset and use the EEPROM instead... anyone have this problem?
     
  9. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    If it were me, I'd remove the new bed, flip it over and verify that all four of those metal/magnetic inserts are deeply inserted into their respective holes. I have one that will try to pop out from time to time. When it's like this, it affects the bed height in that corner = not good.
     
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  10. KRGraphicsCG

    KRGraphicsCG Member

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    Everything checks out... it is good... for now.
     
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  11. J_Man

    J_Man Member

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    I finally solved my bed level issues. I had bent the metal when I first got it to get it level. It was warped horribly. Still, I could never get it right. I had a high side on the back right that I couldn't get right. I lived with it for a while but finally got enough of it. It seemed to be getting worse.

    I took the screws and caps off. I had found from front to back, the bed rested right. From left to right, the bed did not. It would shift driving one side higher than the other. I changed it out with bolts and screws so I could manually adjust each corner. I have it perfectly level now. I lost about 2 inches using longer screws than needed, but that's no big deal. You just have to be sure underneath that the screws doesn't extend too far so it interferes with the homing of the bed. I might replace that bed with a sheet of glass eventually and fully create a whole new idea. I know about 5 different ideas to fix it. That laser leveling just doesn't work right.
     

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  12. J_Man

    J_Man Member

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    New issue I just discovered while setting up a print right after the last. When it laser leveled, it was off on the back again when it started printing. It was perfectly lined on the last print. Having the screws and nuts allowed me to easily adjust and make it print right, so I guess the conclusion is to manually line it up, set the z axis, then turn off auto leveling. Maybe that will work... it's my next option. It's obvious it's messed up. I was using the black tape stuff they provided, but it seemed to really throw it off. The blue tape seems to work better and hold prints better.
     
  13. J_Man

    J_Man Member

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    Finished another print and had the same high in the back starting another print. I'll try the fine tuning wizard tonight and see what that does with the screws and bolts set up. It did nothing for the screws that it was set up with factory. I did my adjustments to get this print going it's a little too far on the front left but it'll give a decent print still for this print.
     
  14. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Dude, I'm loving this thread because I'm guessing that I have a subtle/same version of this on my C2 and I've just been tweaking things to compensate. That first photo above to me looks like the left side is higher than the right. If you have a digital caliper, it would be worth dialing this in with that. My caliper has a lock screw so I think I'd lock that to some arbitrary short distance, tighten each corner screw and then adjust it until it's within a paper's width of the caliper's gap. Repeat all around. Measure all around to verify. Then run a spiral test, and review the print under magnification: it should be the same flatness on all orthogonal extents.

    Oh and if you've raised your bed height then you might want to visit Cura's printer profile and adjust the max-Z to compensate so that you don't hit your head on the ceiling at some later date.
     
  15. J_Man

    J_Man Member

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    Mine keeps moving. I had it level and it ran ok for a few prints, then was high in the back. Adjusting the bolts worked to get it through the print, but then the next print was off. The auto level keeps throwing it off. It won'to stay exactly the same.

    I don't print tall stuff, so the height drop isn't too big a deal. It's only about an inch. If I can get the auto level to stop throwing it off, it'd work great. I see they have the leveling for the R2, hopefully they might do an update for the C2. That or fix the issue going on. I'll still be playing with the idea.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I ended up just manually leveling it and ditching the autoleveling entirely.
    Small bed so manually leveling it is not a huge pain.
     
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  17. J_Man

    J_Man Member

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    My Wanhao Duplicator 4S has the 4 point manual bed leveling, and that works fine. I figured if there was a way to bring that to the C2, it work fix the issues. I just didn't turn the auto level off yet. I thought if the bed was finally straight, everything else would work. I just wonder what's up with it. When I first got it, it worked great. It's like a firmware update broke it. It was even working ok with Cura 2.5 until I guess that update before this last one. Reverting back to 2.3.1 fixed some of what became a problem until the last update. That's when this leveling issue really became a problem.
     
  18. J_Man

    J_Man Member

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    I thought I knew, but I'm failing to find it. How do you turn off auto leveling?
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you print from OctoPrint go into the startup GCode section (there is a lot in there...) look for the G29; and either comment it out or just delete it. Then if you use other slicers remove that from their startup GCode block as well. Even if you don't add it in your slicer, OctoPrint will add its own preamble code so you must remove it from there too.
     
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  20. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Why not just remove all Octoprint starting Gcode so that you can reliably make changes in your slicer?
     

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