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Upgraded bed heater?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by drbanks, Jun 6, 2018.

  1. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    As I spend my afternoons watching the extruder nozzle burn off its junk while the bed very slowly inches up to 80 C, I have to ask myself if there's any reasonable upgrade path. Mine came with a V2 bed, so I haven't suffered the joys of Pogo, but I have suffered the following:

    • Bed disconnects after using water to clean
    • Bed disconnects after using IPA to clean
    • Having to try 4 times to get the bed pid tuning to work
    • hours of never getting that time bac waiting to heat up
    I've long wanted a full enclosure to print ABS/ASA, but I doubt I could ever get it to 100 without using a propane torch or maybe a can of sterno
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    There is no upgrade. The bed heaters on all Robo printers, ever since the first models, appear to be incredibly underpowered and slow. My guess would be that this is primarily a cost cutting measure.
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I've often thought the propane torch would solve my problems as well....I dont think we are wrong haha. If you took it upon yourself to do a redesign of the bed/carriage and implemented a silicone heater with an SSR you could certainly get to those temperatures I'd bet. Lots of work to do so. I will say that ASA loves to stick hard to build tak, likely 80 is fine (I run that on my gmax when I run ASA on it) and not being fully enclosed is ok (part of the reason ASA rocks socks compared to ABS for most people).

    Anyway.... :D
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I would think it is not impossible, but removing the board heater on the bottom of the build plate would be a problem. Then the connector would be another issue. I listed the exact parts used in the connector. It is available from electronic houses (Digikey, Mouser, etc.).
     
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  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I think it would be "best" to ditch it all and make up an aluminum style like UM uses. :D
     
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  6. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    And not to mention the re-calibrating the marlin software, although one would hope that PID tuning could take care of most of that. The R2 is a 24V system?

    OTOH, I have a 2.5KG spool of ASA that I've yet to open, so maybe I should just stick to that.

    I'm using a lot of nGen lately at 80 C, and while it takes a half an hour to get there, it can easily maintain the temperature, so I just make it a point that when a print finishes, get the next one going before it's had a chance to cool down much.

    Although the stock OctoPrint startup script wants to cool it down to 60 while it's drawing that line at the start of the print. Wishing there was some way from there to reach ahead to the gcode to see whatever we're going to want and use that instead. For that matter, I'm extruding at 240, and that same process wants to cool it down to 230, although the extruder heats considerably more quickly.

    I'm starting to guess that it's a common thing to null out the OctoPrint startup script and putting that into the Slicer3D gcode scripts in the filament profile instead.

    As for designing a new heated bed system, I could probably do that, but as I keep reminding people, all epic failures start with me picking up a screwdriver or wrench, so implementation is an entirely different matter.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes.
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I dumped the priming line from the script, it is a true waste of time if you are using a skirt around the actual print.
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I left it, it is kinda cute :)
     
  10. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    I'm kind of fond of the ball of filament snot it makes on the right while it's waiting for the real temps to stabilize
     

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