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Using Arduino board on Robo R2 project in process

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Lance Weston, Mar 27, 2019.

  1. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I put a google drive link to the zip file
    I put a google link to the file in the text section
     
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  2. Bemster

    Bemster New Member

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    In Windows exploring the file some files work and some did not. Make sense now. Thanks for uploading as I just tried it and works now. And for the fast responses everyone.
     
  3. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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  4. Bemster

    Bemster New Member

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    Manage to compile and upload the program to the Arduino / Ramps 1.4 board setup. Need to figure out the wiring in the printer now. Not sure if I have all the need parts. May just make it temp. to see if it works.

    I am doing the change on a second R2 I just purchased on Ebay. I remove the downtown board to put it my orginal R2 since it's mainboard has issue with the extruder. Interesting as I traced to to the board but when I push down on the ribbon cable the stepper works. Just can not find the problem to fix. Tried desoldering pins. Robo has been almost zero response in getting a replacement board.

    I will let you know when I get this working.
     
    #24 Bemster, May 10, 2019
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    At some point it would be an interesting experiment to replace the wiring harness and remove both the uptown and downtown boards, wiring direct from mainboard to extruder head and stepper.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Interesting idea for sure.
    Difficult without reworking the carriage. I guess you could strap wire bundles around it, but it would be rather clunky I suspect.
    Be nice to see it experimented with.
     
  7. Bemster

    Bemster New Member

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    My thought is to make a ribbon break out cable with a female connector that the current ribbon cable connects too and the other end flying leads to Dupont single (or more) connectors. As for now, I like to make it so I can go back to a Robo board when I run across one. Either end of the cable will work but this saves running a new cable thru the R2 cabinet.

    May need to do something if the uptown board goes out.
     
    #27 Bemster, May 10, 2019
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Al of the boards on the carriage (there is the one at the top and a couple more buried in the carriage itself) are at least all simple. Just connectors and wire run redirects. There is not much in terms of electronics on them. See my disassembly thread in the C2 section if you are interested.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  10. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    Up top I have posted a picture of the Arduino board that I know works, the CH340G that I know does not work and a board that I think may work but is untested. If you order the boards on eBay you have to specify that the board they send you must match the the board pictured. So far I have 3 refunds and one cancellation on boards that I have thus specified but received the CH340 board. XYL Tech sells a ramps and Arduino combo for around $22 that works well It uses the same stepper driver chips as Robo, less current out but better accuracy under load. I have a couple of them.
     
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  11. robert trama

    robert trama New Member

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    i had this problem with the ribbon cable and it ended up being a small tear win the wiring below the ribbon connector
     
  12. robert trama

    robert trama New Member

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    im getting ready to do this mod and just going through the wiring before i start and there are a few areas that i am not quite following, specifically "remove D1, move the 5amp PTC into the 11 amp PTC position and replace the 5amp PTC with a fuse holder (11amp fuse)" just not able to locate it on the board and not sure where it is on the diagram provided
     
  13. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    D1 is in the center of the picture
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    F1 and F2 are on the left of the picture and are the PTC's
     
  15. robert trama

    robert trama New Member

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    thank you Lance,

    i have 3 more questions,
    1. to the right of F1 and F2 there is the 12v aux but on the wiring diagram posted it says 24v, am i changing something on that?

    2. the two fans coming out of the voltage 24v step down, are those parts cooling or hotend heat-sink fans, or is the fan coming out of d8 the parts cooling? its just the way its labeled that is throwing me off since there wouldn't be a way to control them coming directly of off the step down board

    3. it says to move the 5 amp to the 11 amp position and replace the 5 amp with an fuse holder and 11 amp fuse but the diagram is marked 5 amp (f2) and 15amp (f1), can i assume that the 15 amp is just a typo and that its actually 11 amp?

    again i appreciate your time and thank you for posting all of this
     
  16. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    1. no, we are converting the 12v ramps to a 24v version
    2.. D8 is the pair of PWM cooling fans on the hotend
    3. I used a 15a fuse.
     
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  17. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    2. We are converting the ramps to 24v for the steppers and bed, but leaving the fans at 12v.
     
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  18. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I attached a schematic that uses a 16 pi IDC breakout board. It makes things a little easier. Jonah at partsbuilt is working on a PCB that will mount all of the parts and act close to a drop in for the mainboard. Try contacting him and see how far off it is.

    jonah@partsbuilt.com
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. robert trama

    robert trama New Member

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    that looks interesting, ive actually emailed parts built a couple times through the website asking about the C2 main-board since it looks identical to the R2 main-board, just haven't heard back from them. though a direct drop in would be nice.

    figured i would trace back each line on the ribbon cable to the uptown board and just pull that apart on the main board end and just break it out into multiple connections, since i have a spare ribbon cable harness if i ever need to go back i could.
     
  20. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    attached is the schematic I am using right now, before I convert to using the 16 pin Robo cable I got from Jonah at partsbuilt. It shows the pinout of the 14 pin cable running to the downtown board. I made my own 14 pin cable by cutting 1" wide strips of construction paper and stacking 4 or 5 strips. I then took the ribbon cable and heater cable and taped to the paper strips. Finally I wrapped the assembly with black tape. Works fine, looks like crap.
     

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