Warping

So I've had great luck with taulman 618 except when it comes to warping. I dried it out in a toaster oven and had zero water vapor coming off as it printed, no stringing, it printed great but anything bigger than a quarter warps. I am using 1/8" garolite. I've looked around and can't seem to get much luck, seems like everyone agrees it warps, a lot. I've been doing hot end at 245 (not stock hot end!) and heated bed anywhere from 50 to 80 to see if that would help.

Anyone have any luck with warping and nylon?

 

yeah I agree, I think that is the general consensus and unfortunately due to the design of the Robo an enclosure isn't easily accomplished. Hopefully someone out there will find the magical answer haha

 

Michael - what hot end are you using?

 

E3D all metal hot end.

I could try using a shop light to add some heat to the area. When I get around to it I'll let you know how it goes

 

Any news on here since?

 

Small prints = great success. Well small footprint I should say. I tried using a 500 watt halogen light and it didn't do anything different. I have used both garolite and nylon 6/6 on top of my heated bed, they both yield the same results I've found.

But get your heated bed hot (I've been experimenting with about 60 degrees C) and SLOW DOWN your print. Here is a screen shot of my current nylon speed settings.
Also print at a higher resolution (smaller layer height) it will cause the nylon to really fuse together. I currently am doing my first layer at .1mm and the rest at .15. Get that first layer squished down, you will have to adjust your Z-height to lower it a little compared to ABS or PLA.

BE CAREFUL if you go too low you will jam the nozzle and have to cancel the print and clear the jam (most of the times it happens around the hobbed bolt, because nylon is so flexible).

I would say my results are getting better but there are still plenty of warped prints and lots of experimenting to do.

 

Thanks!! Im keen to get some Nylon is the 645any different to the 618? why did you chose the 618?

 

I've actually used both 618 and 645. At this point I cannot honestly tell you the difference haha. I believe 645 in appearance is more milky while 618 can be a bit more translucent. I've printed with both and have had the same results with both. One more note, make sure retraction is turned on I have it set to 3mm and a speed of 30 mm/s it helps a lot because of how much nylon oozes.

 

Great thanks!

 

So, not a totally unsuccessful 1st go with the 645 Nylon...

took 3 goes to get the temp about good (good as in it worked) small part less than 20x15mm on the bed but gripping well to blue tape and prit stick beds on 80 although think it was fine on 60 i had it on before.

1st layer is at 270 and then 265 i scared my self up here with the hissing and popping of all the moisture bubbling out and the fact i blocked my new 0.25mm nozzle and have no idea what i can find to unblock it, new plan is to get it hot!! as i think its just nylon blocking it.

also went high as i thought it was not extruding enough and leaving gaps not sure i have cracked that yet though...

i have a paper clip that i know fits a .4 nozzle so think im going to check the temps out with that until i know i can unblock the other one.

Im in the marine industry and I have access to a vac pump and an oven so think im going to sit it in there mot of tomorrow to get rid of some of this water!

 

pretty much out of curiosity... is the answer to why im using the 0.25. It also helps with maths I find as im sure others do that you always work to MM when creating from scratch unless your making something to fit something else and having it at .25 = 1/4 of a MM i did find i had a huge improvement in avoiding voids both cosmetic and structural, interested to hear what people think on this?

This stuff stays rubbery for a while after the prints finished doesn't it!!

 

Try with no fan on part, and most of all...use brim. It will help greatly. Try 5 to 10mm depending on part.

 

So had another go after i finally got it all going again today.. . temps back down to 255 245 c bed at 60? do i need the bed do we think?

not the best setup for the print as the nylon stuck nicely to the blue tape the blue tape came a little lose on one side so not ideal.

I think im coming ot the conclusion my printer is 10 C cooler than it thinks so im now running at 210 and 200 for PLA with my new e3d and the first set of layers went down much better with the nylon on this so im thinking the 255 that they were printed at cooling down form the 1st layer made a difference so going to start tomorrow on 260 and 255 see how i go.

I think the thin bits being messy is partly design and partly the temp of the nozzle will report back tomrrow

 

Racegrafix thanks for that tried no fan seemed good, also put a 5mm brim on it but not sure what this does? does it help with warping?

 

What is brim?

 

Its a 1st layer thickness layer that goes down before your print the reperier photo probably shows it best... so far as i can tell i think its to help adhesion to the print bed where as a raft is a full structure to print onto to aid in the bottom layer finish and warping.