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Was Thinking of selling original Prusa i3 MK2 Not Anymore

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by aznhlfan, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    I am installing the prusa edition slic3r now.

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  2. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    1.33.8 is the slic3r Prusa edition that installed.
     
  3. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    If I can get this Prusa running smooth and printing like I need it to, I will definitely keep it. Not sure about the PEI bed, but all I have had are glass beds, so I just have to get used to it I guess.
     
  4. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    PEI is more about being a surface that 99% of filaments will adhere to while printing without needing to add any adhesives (basically only ever needing cleaning with rubbing alcohol if you get oils from your skin on it) than surface finish on the print.

    Most PEI sheet manufacturers make the sheet where one side has a sort of matte finish and the other is glossy, so whenever people have added PEI to their Robo (a fair number who don't want to deal with sprays/tapes/glues to make their prints stick) they try to make sure the glossy side faces up.

    Somewhere like this third-party supplier here apply the adhesive to the matte side so you always get the glossy side facing up, but it may be possible that your printer got a sheet with the adhesive on the glossy side so it was installed matte side up (there is an option to order it matte side up).

    It does not affect function as prints adhere just as well regardless of which side of the PEI is used, and 99% of 3d printer hobbyists are used to post-processing to get the finish they want on their prints (vapor smoothing, wet-sanding, etc.; depending on filament used), if they care about the base surface finish at all and aren't going to paint the object before calling it finished.
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @aznhlfan were you able to run the gcode I attached for you? Quick deprime (probably 40 mins of less max, cant remember)
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    sounds like you should be up to date. The printer will beep at you when you go to print a file if your behind on the firmware
     
  7. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    I don't have any problems with the filament adhering (just up the temp. From the glass beds by 10°). I print with PLA probably 99% of the time. I did not have time to print the gcode, but as I should have some extra time tonight I will print it.

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  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I do a higher first layer temp then drop the temp the following layers, helps adhesion on BIG prints but doesn't make me run my pla to hot to lose quality. I'll try my best to keep an eye out for the response (no promises, tonight is drink night lol)
     
  9. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    Lol

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  10. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    I think your right, it is probably my settings, and I could never get the z offset right. Always seemed to be to high no matter what I set it on.

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  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    How are you setting the Z ? Its manually set with the pinda (up to go down, down to go up) and then you babystep it (live adjust Z function on the controller) until its perfect. If more than 1mm adjustment you need/should adjust the pinda.
     
  12. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    I let the pinda do it then adjust the live for every print. But should I have to adjust the live for every print? That's kinda a pain, why have the auto adjust? The pinda sets it to high and end up do the live, but it never seems to get low enough. As it prints, the pinda is very close to the print, almost scraping it.

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  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    sounds like your pinda isn't set right and the live adjust Z stores when you enter it, even with a power off and trip to Midwest Rep Rap mine was stored. I think we need to look at your pinda height, update the firmware to the new version, rerun the xyz calibration then set your baby steps to get that perfect first layer
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    first guess would be the pinda is moving and that its throwing off your Z height, easy enough to fix but I'd like to get your firmware up to date, re run the xyz calibration, then set up the pinda and your Z. Then we should be getting a repeatable first layer on every print (unless you do a huge change in layer height)
     
  15. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    I'm getting ready to leave for work, right now. The firmware on the machine is 3.0.9

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  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    try that test print, it will tell you if it needs updated or not :D I cant remember which version firmware on which machine...I have to many lol
     
  17. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    That is what shipped with it 6 months ago. Not sure if they update the machine firmware often.

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  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Pretty sure there is an update. They are very active with the software
     
  19. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    I will update tonight. Here are the changes:
    Changes in 3.0.10:

    • Loose pulleys test added to the self test
    • Statistics fixed
    • PID tuning fixed and saving parameters to EEPROM enabled
    • Stop print function fixed
    • Load filament function improved
    • Stack guard added
    • XYZ calibration updated
    • Factory reset has new menu
    • Missing “Move Z” option fixed
     
  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    yep thats the one I just updated to
     

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