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Solved Where to get thermosister replacement (r1+)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Dcbarry, Nov 28, 2018.

  1. Dcbarry

    Dcbarry New Member

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    I keep wiggling those tiny leads apart, but they find their way back to shorting each other out internal to the cylindrical portion.where I cant insulate them from each other.

    Has anyone ever sourced the thermosister (round/cylindrical) used in the r1+ outside of Robo? Or one that fits the stock nozzle setup? (I can alter firmware as needed for the value).


    Alternatively, can someone point me to a verified drop in solution to replacing the entire hot-end under $25.00. I thought i sourced one awhile ago on alibaba, but when it arrived -- wrong size.

    Side note:

    Trying to be patient with Robo's customer support, but I keep getting run-around.

    (Seems the glitch where I can no longer log into Robos' support (not this forum) website, get a password reset, nor create a new account with my existing email is affecting their ability to send me an invoice to pay for one.) Gave them an alternate email ddress, but no invoice. Calling an leaving messages on their voicemail goes straight to /dev/null apparantly. SO I cant get one from them.




    Sigh.
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Moved to R1+ area. Nobody I’m aware of has round a replacement for the thermistor and same to a 25.00 hit end. Robo has been the cheapest the last few years, most upgradeto an e3dv6 for performance and part availability
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Nope: and we have tried... a lot. Bought batches of them from China (BangGood, AliExpress, etc.)
    None fit right. You can fake it by getting a standard glass bead thermsitor and stuffing it inside the little can the original thermistor was in and use high-temperature RTV to hold it in place.

    Sorry, can't do that either... none of the cheap "clones" are worth the cost of the power to blow them to hell (in my humble opinion).
    Does that mean they won't work? Of course not, some folks have gotten them to work, but they are worse design than the Hexagon (and far worse than a real E3D) so I wouldn't waste my money. Get an E3D and you can buy every single part of that hotend separately from multiple sources (and they are not terribly expensive). Again, some folks have had luck with them ... Your Mileage May Vary. I'd just say save up a bit more and avoid the hassle.

    I totally get why folks shy away form it, but it is more of a pay me now or pay me later. :)
    Good luck with whatever approach you opt for.
     
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  4. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Member

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    I've used several types of hotends, and so far I've only found one design that was cheap & worked well. It's not going to fit unless you break off one side of fins on the heat sink. On the Bowden version which I have, I had to pop off the red plastic push piece since it wouldn't fit with it on. The teflon tubing still plugs into it. The opposite side of the heatsink fits well without any modifications.

    It has an advantage that you could adjust the height with a set screw so that there's no wobble when the metal bar locks onto it. Some fit all versions of E3D clones have excess space on the top of the heatsink, and cause the whole assembly to wobble unless you use teflon tape to take up the slack. This model is very snug. I've had constant issues with filament getting jammed in the heatbreak on other hotends but not on this one. This is what it looks like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074T6N565/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=ARHQXJV6J0DWR&psc=1
     
    #4 BrooklynBay, Nov 28, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2019
  5. Dcbarry

    Dcbarry New Member

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    So they (Robo) worked through their problems on their sales platform and I received a package today


    Unfortunately it was the wrong thermosister.

    Sigh
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    wrong as in the connector?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It would almost have to be since they all use the exact same type of thermistor.

    EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    that was my thought as well. May be easy enough to splice on your old connector and get rolling
     
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  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Robo speced a thermistor connector almost no one else uses, go figure. The 'waterproof SM' connector can be purchased as a crimp connector or with leads already attached from Amazon, The thermistor is simply a heat reactive resistance load so there is no real plus or minus leads. They can be wired any way you like.
     
  10. Dcbarry

    Dcbarry New Member

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    I am a knucklehead.

    In reality, I have had so much going on that I realized I was thinking of the size of the heating element, not the thermosister.

    I will now slink away in embarrassment and make my apologies to Robo direct.
     
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No shame, until you work with them a lot it is easy to get lost in the weeds :)
     
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  12. PJ Geez

    PJ Geez New Member

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    Soooo, where do I get replacement thermistors for my R1+????
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    It should be a 'thermistor in a can' for the R1+ so as long as the thermistor appears to be a metal tube then you can get them from China or from China via Amazon:

    AliExpress
    Amazon

    [​IMG]
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you want an exact match (wiring and all) you have to get them from Robo for the Hexagon hotend, but good luck with that -- they are usually out of stock
     
  15. Dcbarry

    Dcbarry New Member

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    Although I had some initial problems reaching them...( don’t bother with the phone line.... open a ticket.....).... despite my earlier post, they did in fact send me the correct thermosister. Pricy (12.50), 7.50 was for shipping but they did deliver.


    Now that I have a stock working version, I think I would be more willing to DIY, but at the time I wanted something that was “guaranteed” to work. I was worried about using other materials to keep a small glass bead in place without cracking it. (Does anyone know if there is a proper fitting sock for the stick heater block?)
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am pretty sure that an E3D sock that is made for the current version v6 suitable for use with the PT100 thermal probe is the correct fit.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Just wrap some layers of kapton tape around it.
     
  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I found my old Hexagon in a box and I was incorrect on the silicone sock, the E3D is bigger. I think this is the sock that fits

    Amazon
    [​IMG]
     
  19. PJ Geez

    PJ Geez New Member

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    I ordered a couple canister types from eBay and will comment on how it goes, after I get them.
     
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