Answered Why did my print bed burn up?

There is an entire thread around the way the bed was wired on the R1 printers There was even a recall to do away with those connectors...

What Robo did was to eliminate the connector so that the bed was directly wired in. You can replace that connector yourself with Anderson Powerpoles or a Deans connector (I like the 45a Anderson Powerpoles myself: https://www.amazon.com/ANEN-Powerpole-Connectors-Compatible-FlexRadio/dp/B074CSYJ25)

and to answer your earlier question -- yes a fire is not out of the question.

 

http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/replacement-bed-connector.2756/

http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/heated-bed-plug-for-ribbon-cable.6780/

http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/found-my-heated-bed-problem-but-what-now.4030/

 

The connector they used was simply not good enough for the current the bed pulls long-term.

 

If you contact Robo they may do the rewire for you if you send them the bed -- they were recalled after all at one point.
I would suggest just doing it yourself (replacing that connector with a better one is not too bad) since the time it took them to rewire it was about a month turn-around.

 

Sure, you can totally remove the connector. That was what Robo used as a fix if you sent the board back to them.

 

Not all filaments require bed heat to work. Many do not.
Adjust your Z offset down slightly and you will probably find that normal height models will stick OK. If you DO have a taller one then add a brim and you should be OK.

 

connectors means you can take the bed off. The R1+ is a solid wire from heater to board, either way is fine. You just remove one wire at a time and splice togather from the connector. No wiring diagram I'm aware of (but there arnt that many wires )