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Wood filament stopping extruding

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Eric Viglotti, Jan 31, 2018.

  1. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

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    Hello,

    I am printing with Hatchbox Wood PLA and a few hours into printing, the extruder is no longer extruding. The head is moving and it's moving up in air as if it thinks stuff is coming out, but it's not. This has happened a few times but always with wood filament. I suspect that per this link: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/wood-filled/ I probably need to stop trying to do this with my stock R2 and 0.4mm nozzle? Or how can I clean it out and try again?

    Thanks!
     

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    #1 Eric Viglotti, Jan 31, 2018
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You can burn it out, it is mostly PLA so any torch will heat it up enough to burn the remaining stuck filament. I would use a 0.60 mm at a minimum with cork and wood filled filaments.
     
    #2 WheresWaldo, Jan 31, 2018
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  3. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

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    Good to know, thank you.
     
    #3 Eric Viglotti, Jan 31, 2018
  4. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

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    I've never successfully changed out from my stock nozzle on either my R2 or R1+. I should probably google some links out there to see how to do it. But generally is it such a pain the neck to do that it's better to buy a spare hot end, change the nozzle on that one and when you need to switch between 0.4mm and 0.6mm, you just swap out the hot end? Or is the nozzle change on the same hot end still easy enough? I assume you have to take the hot end out to swap the nozzle anyway right?
     
    #4 Eric Viglotti, Jan 31, 2018
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I just change the nozzle. Heat it up, hold the heater block (dont short your wires) with a wrench, break the nozzle loose with a 2nd wrench. Let it cool down. Spin out the nozzle, spin in the new one, heat back up and snug the nozzle while holding the heatblock (with the wrenches). You can certainly buy a 2nd hotend and do it that way if you would prefer.
     
    #5 Geof, Jan 31, 2018
  6. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

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    Thanks much @Geof. I assume you are doing this with the hot end still in the printer, connected and locked down? I know it would need to be connected to power (since you say to heat it up). Also, dumb question, but which way does this turn, clockwise or counterclockwise? I know things can be threaded differently sometimes and I don't want to over-tighten it :)
     
    #6 Eric Viglotti, Jan 31, 2018
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    yes I leave in the machine. Righty tighty lefty loosey applies still :D. I'll be honest I substitute the nozzle wrench for a 1/4" drive socket after I swap to an E3D nozzle (SO MUCH EASIER) but still use a wrench, pliers etc to hold the heaterblock.
     
    #7 Geof, Jan 31, 2018
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    What I use on the hot zone is a 16 mm cone wrench, they are thin and made for bearing cones on old school bicycle hubs
    Sample on Amazon Prime
    TFB10_ParkToolDCW2-2[1].jpg

    Then a 7 mm wrench or ratchet for the actual nozzle
     
    #8 WheresWaldo, Jan 31, 2018
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  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I thought the hexagon was a different size? I cant recall now?
     
    #9 Geof, Jan 31, 2018
  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    As far as I know the same size an E3Dv6 on the hot zone, I think they recently changes the nozzle to have only two flats.
     
    #10 WheresWaldo, Jan 31, 2018
  11. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    I think the robo Hex heater block is 18mm.
     
    #11 supercazzola, Feb 2, 2018

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