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X Axis Bearing Upgrade

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Dec 5, 2015.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Next on my agenda was to upgrade the X-Axis bearings from LM8UU to the same Self-Aligning, Self-Lubricating Sintered Bronze Bearings that I used in the Y-Axis. After printing out a bunch of X carriages, I decided I didn't like any of the designs for various reasons, not even the ones I designed myself, so I decided to modify the existing carriage.

    Please note that is you do this, you cannot go back to the LM8UU as the bearing outside diameters are different (15 mm vs. 15.9 mm).

    After disassembly of the X-Axis Carriage this is where things get interesting. Took my carriage to the drill press, but any drill can work with some care. Chucked up a high speed steel (it's what I had) 5/8" drill bit. A 5/8" drill bit is 15.82 mm so it is close enough to get a snug fit on the bearings. Drilled out the two holes that hold the LM8UU bearings. Then used a few Q-Tips soaked in acetone to smooth out the surface of the the holes on the inside and to gain the few hundredths of a mm I needed. The new bearings then just press in. Used the same technique to "pre break-in" the bearings once installed (outlined and video link in Y-Axis Upgrade thread). Had to use the same Q-Tip / acetone trick on the left X-Axis Idler Arm as there was a small discrepancy in the width of the two X-Axis rails (measured exactly 83 mm c-to-c on the right, but 82.7 mm c-to-c on the left) which caused the X-Carriage to bind near the X-Axis home position. Reassembled.

    Here is a video after installation. It demonstrates how much less noise there is with these bearings over LM8UU's. The first few seconds are with no movement so you can get a base reading on just how noisy the fans are. The video shows a Auto Home sequence (need to tune the speed and retune the stepper drivers since the bearings are a bit snugger) there is a very slight shudder which will smooth out as the bearings are broken in. Following this was an Auto Bed Level Sequence.



    Y Axis bearing replacement thread located here.
     
    #1 WheresWaldo, Dec 5, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
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  2. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Waldo this is great. Thank you for introducing these bearings to me. How does the self aligning work? I saw a youtube video where the guy was going to show the self aligning setup, but never did. Is there any trick to it?
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yeah, there is a trick, you need to follow the video in my Y Axis thread. It shows how to break the bearings in, the heat produced help set the bearings in place. The bearings can adjust for as much as 5% mis-alignment.
     
  4. Johnny Yuen

    Johnny Yuen New Member

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    This is a very good upgrade. The LM8UU bearings on the x carriage are incredibly loud, this is going to be one of my next upgrades. Any plans on replacing the hotend fan with a quieter one?
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I cracked on of my X Idler Arms (the left side), when the Robo replacement gets here I will take a video of the run around the bed 100 times gcode file I wrote, so you can see just how quiet it is. You will be very surprised.
     
  6. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    @WheresWaldo, I took the X carriage that @Mike Kelly put on Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:647798) and updated it modeled after your Y blocks for the new Bronze Bearings. It's a work in progress that I haven't tested yet, but thought I would share. I didn't want to drill my original and thought this would make a good option.
     

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  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @danzca6 That is a great way to implement this upgrade. Thanks for the work.
     
  8. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I'm learning Fusion 360, so I am hoping to get a better model put together to print. This was done just using Tinkercad. Hopefully I'll have a finished printed version to post soon
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Fusion 360 is the way to go for free to use programs, don't care much for the web based stuff, and can't afford Solidworks, but Fusion 360 does nearly everything Solidworks does anyway, at least for my needs.

    So I have had this upgrade installed about a month now, and the only issue I ran into was the need to retune my stepper driver for the X axis, it was stuttering at startup, so I tuned it to just below the maximum stepper input and now it is working perfectly.
     
  10. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    So you had to up the voltage on the X driver? That surprises me. I would think with less resistance that you would need to lower it if anything.
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I think I had a bit of binding, but after breaking it in it is much smoother now and of course quieter, I have not revisited the stepper driver.
     
  12. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    @BryZad was just saying he was having some binding with the Y axis upgrade. Is there a trick for doing the aligning? I read that they are self aligning, but not sure if there is something else needed.
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Answered in Shoutbox.
     
  14. sesl

    sesl New Member

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    I just did the Y axis today and I'm loving it. This is definitely my next upgrade. Thanks for all the info man!
     
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yeah tried to make the description as complete as possible. These two upgrades have made a world of difference to my Robo, it's not quiet, but it doesn't sound near as bad as it did before, and maintenance is easier too since I don't really need to lubricate the rails. Just a quick wipe with a dry cloth and it's good to go.
     
  16. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Ordered two sets of 4. My main goal is to fix my X axis.. but I ordered 4 more for the Y too.

    I ruined my stock X carriage months ago, and have been using this carriage
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:696183

    ...I got tired of putting tape on the bearings though as its super loose as is. So I modded it in 123D, first I filled the holes then punched new holes through. I hope I got it right.

    On my printer at least(replicator 2 modded, since my robo is down ) for the stock bearings that are 15mm Outer diamiter.. 15.3mm ended up being really tight, 15.4mm ended up being tight but i could press them in by hand without slamming the stuff into the table. The thinigverse ones are like 1mm too big? I dunno maybe. I have been printing modded carriages all week trying to get the fitament right.

    So by those measurements I'm going to print a new carriage with .4 mm larger holes than required 15.9 + 0.4 = 16.3. I'm printing a couple out now on my Replicator 2 in PLA while I wait for the new bearings.

    I print my carriages in 100% infil unless its for testing.

    When I get the new bearings I will do some test fits and post the modded carriage on thingiverse. if I get it working right.
     
    #16 KTMDirtFace, Feb 10, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2016
  17. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I find that when dealing with holes it seems like it is a trial and error to find the right fit sometimes. I would suggest designing a quick test block that is minimal size with a hole size you are trying to fit the bearings into. That way you aren't printing a full carriage each time to test the fit of the bearings. Once you find a good size, then incorporate that into the full carriage and print. Just a suggestion.
     
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  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Most slicers have an adjustment value used for inside perimeters, Slic3r calls theirs XY Size Compensation and it is under Print Settings >> Advanced. They define it as
    @KTMDirtFace I sent you solid models.
     
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  19. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I didn't know that Waldo. I will have to check Cura when I get back home to see what setting is similar to that in Slic3r. If I can get that dialed in, that would save me a lot of headache with holes being too tight and having to drill them or modify the model. Thanks!
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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