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Z Axis - precision and accuracy

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Ziggy, Mar 25, 2014.

  1. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    The reason your couplers only move backwards/forwards sometimes is that the friction is high and enough to usually stop the couplers moving when the power is turned on. However the microstepping error is still there because every time the power is turned off the A4988 drivers (and Marlin) forget where they were.
     
  2. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    As I mentioned in my earlier post it would be very helpful for someone (or a few Robo'ers) who is NOT having Z Ribbing issues could print the test.stl I attached above in PLA at 0.2mm layer height and post a picture. The test model only takes about 15mins to print.

    This should give us some clues as to why 20% of Robo'ers are not having problems with Z Artifacts.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Here ya go.
    I have never had this problem as I indicated earlier. Perhaps all of the set-screw tightening/loctiting and other tweaks we did when the machine arrived helps, or not.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. savior2064

    savior2064 Member

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    On the second pic you can see some slight ribbing affect.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    N
    No. That is simply layers. The sides are glass smooth.
    It is PLA and the layers are very visible, but there is zero deformations on the sides. No ribbing at all. Since it is translucent you can see the layers better than a solid color (that is all internal). The first shot is at an angle to the light so you can see how smooth it is. It is that way all the way.
     
  6. AxisLab

    AxisLab Well-Known Member

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    Ziggy, awesome!
    I agree with Mike that copying this into a new thread of its own would be great for us and others with this problem in the future.

    Thanks for the find!
     
  7. Montravont

    Montravont Active Member

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    The one problem I see with this currently is that if you're running a RoBo with auto leveling the power is never off to the z steppers as it is constantly making small adjustments to height as it prints and a lot of the people currently getting ribbing are using the autolevel.

    Unless I'm wrong, which is entirely possible as I don't know a ton about how the arduino operates.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Interesting.
    Kickstarter backer myself, one of the first October batches. Mind you, it had LOTS of QA issues (if there was a screw installed that was tight originally, I could not tell you which one it was).
     
  9. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    Thanks Mark,

    I am aiming to print Mark's gcode on my Robo to prove one way or the other whether there is as issue in the gcode or my machine.

    Mike and Axislab

    I created a new thread Z Axis Artifacts - Known Issues and Fixes.

    I'm hoping we can keep this thread up to date and edit/delete stuff as we get a better understanding of what works and doesn't.
     
  10. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    No you are right. The Z axis power off issue won't be the only problem causing Z artifacts of course.

    I suggest you print the test.stl in PLA at 0.2mm and take a careful look at exactly what is happening. First question - are the artifacts Z Ribbing or Z Wobble?

    I deliberately made the test.stl model round so it would be possible to see if the ribbing was on one axis or uniform right round the model.
     
  11. AxisLab

    AxisLab Well-Known Member

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    I wish I would have read this 7 hours ago, just about done printing the bottom half of a large Predator mask and the ribbing is the clearest I have ever seen. From all angles making it clear it is not a wobble.
    Some other minor issues too but this will be heavily sanded for priming/airbrushing and the ribbing will make a lot more work.


    Printed upside down of course.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Out of curiosity, What slicer and software are you using to print that?
    Would love to see the final product too.
     
  13. AxisLab

    AxisLab Well-Known Member

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    Repetier and Slic3r.
    First part half is almost printed. I'll be doing a full project thread on it once I get into it. I have a local airbrush artist who is insanely good. I hope to commission him.
    But.. after this thread I may be making some firmware changes and re-print this.

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Montravont

    Montravont Active Member

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    I've printed round objects before as well. Deprime is meant to test multiple aspects. Its definitely the same ribbing. The ridges are uniform around all sides of the print. Even on individual sections of a print.
     
  15. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    Montravont

    I suggest that you also check your threaded rods are seated properly in the couplers. Easiest way to check is to lightly push down on the threaded rod and watch the coupler. If the coupler compresses at all, the threaded rod is not seated properly.
     
  16. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    While the Z Stepper disable is one cause of varying layer height = Z Ribbing, it's obvious that it is not the only cause. For example I still have some residual Z Ribbing in my prints. It's a lot better but the problem is not completely solved.

    So my next step is to focus on

    - Is there some difference in the gcode between my test prints and test prints which don't have any Z Ribbing? I now have known good gcode from Mark Tomlinson so will try to prove that one way or the other.

    - Maybe the Z Steppers are not actually turning the correct number of microsteps because of friction or lack of power or maybe firmware?

    - Maybe there is an issue with the M8 threaded rods I am using? Probably unlikely as the Z Ribbing issue is so widespread.

    - Maybe the helical couplers are winding up and releasing in a pattern due to friction?

    Frankly I am so pi$$ed off by the Z Ribbing I'm willing to spend the time to get rid of it. Would be good to get some support from the Robo tech guys as well.
     
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  17. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    ok i tried your fix and it worked pretty well for me. It has solved some of the issue but the z-ribbing is still not compleatly gone but you have definitely put in a huge amount of effort into finding the issue. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
     
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  18. savior2064

    savior2064 Member

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    I tried it too and like you said it resolved some of the ribbing issue but not all. Thanks for the suggestion.
     
  19. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    Just an update

    I ran Mark Tomlinson's known good test gcode but could still see the residual Z ribbing in my prints. So I can't blame Slic3r for the ribbing.

    I think I now know how the residual Z ribbing is happening but not yet why.

    I attached a very light protractor on the top end of the threaded rod, ran my test print and video'ed each turn of the Z screw against the protractor.

    IMG_0310.JPG

    Note I changed the Z height to 0.125mm for this test because I wanted exactly 10 increments per turn (360 degrees) of the M8 rod 1.25mm pitch. Normally you would expect to see 36 degrees for each increment.

    The chart shows a plot of the incremental degrees of each turn of the Z Screw during the print.


    Marlin006.jpg

    So I think it pretty clear that the Z Screw incremental degree variation is responsible for the residual Z ribbing. As you can see, the plot shows 6 waves in 6 revolutions of the Z Screw - exactly what the print Z artifacts look like on the test model.

    The chart also shows that the forward/backward jumps due to the Z Stepper being disabled between moves have been eliminated by always keeping the Z Stepper powered up.

    This really helps narrow down where to look for the cause. My protractor measurement setup will also give me a way to check if I have found and fixed the cause.
     
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  20. Bob64

    Bob64 Member

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    Interesting. What (micro) steps per mm are you using? Im assuming 3200?

    The robo 3d uses 1.8degree steppers, so it takes 200 full steps to reach one revolution or 1.25mm travel.

    So to reach 36 degrees or .125mm travel you'd need 320 micro-steps (or 20 full-steps). It looks like these steppers are .5 full steps inaccurate... so this means that when its aiming for 320 micro-steps, it is hitting 312 microsteps or 328 microsteps instead of 320...

    I wonder if anyone has tried disabling microstepping to see if it makes the steppers more accurate - especially if your running metric rods?

    People with stock Metric rods should be able to duplicate this if they use a 0.14111 layer height...
     

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