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Z Axis Wizard Problems

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by dairdevil, Dec 16, 2019.

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  1. dairdevil

    dairdevil New Member

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    Hello... just got a lightly used machine. Everything seems to be working fine (Wi-Fi connectivity, hot ends, stepper motors). But I’ve run into a problem when using the Z axis wizard. Specifically, the build plate only raises to a height well below the hot end and the display screen freezes. 49108712-970E-41AB-B971-F5B3087BC63E.jpeg 7E25FB41-AA41-43FD-ACEC-98F873B7F833.jpeg 49108712-970E-41AB-B971-F5B3087BC63E.jpeg 7E25FB41-AA41-43FD-ACEC-98F873B7F833.jpeg
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    C2 or R2?
    I will move it to the correct area once you tell me -- it is not an R1/R1+ so it does not belong int his section
     
  3. dairdevil

    dairdevil New Member

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    My apologies! It is in R2...
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is a known issue in some versions of the Robo Pi software (which is what runs the wizards and LCD) where it will store the offset as a positive number (it should be negative) but you can fix that by manually going in and entering the value (via the touchscreen) as a negative number.

    Not sure if Robo ever got around to sorting that out, but certainly still does that on my C2 with current firmware/RoboOS versions
     
  6. dairdevil

    dairdevil New Member

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    Thanks Mark... I went in and checked my settings. The home setting offset was -20. The bed offset setting was 0. I am wondering if I have a bad IR sensor and that is why the wizard screen freezes up. Maybe it is expecting a signal in order to go to the next screen? It freezes at the screen that I showed and you actually can’t even go back. I end up turning off the printer and turning it back on to get back to the main screen.
     
  7. dairdevil

    dairdevil New Member

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    Do you think I should try to reset my home offset to 0?
     
  8. dairdevil

    dairdevil New Member

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    Plus… Should I be seeing a red dot on my bed if the IR sensor is working? I currently don’t see anything.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You will not see a visible dot when the sensor is on (unless you have some IR goggles).
    You can manually reset it ... I would not start at zero, maybe -1.0?

    You can see the number the wizard reports if you can get it to run and then manually make that number negative. That number should be in millimeters...(just so you know) or fractions of mm.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I think the last time I ran mine it reported something like 11.7 (sorry -- forget off the top) and stored it as a positive 11.7 ... I just changed it to -11.7 (or whatever) and it worked fine
     
  11. dairdevil

    dairdevil New Member

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    Thanks Mark… Turns out it was a software issue. Once I reflashed the micro SD with good software it worked out perfectly! Thanks for your time.
     
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  12. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    This problem which has been described can also be caused by using non-Robo Marlin firmware on the main board.
     
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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I was unaware of that one, makes sense :)
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Even though the Wizard shouldn't interfere with whatever version of Marlin you want to use, Robo added some stupid code to their Marlin version, one was the Ambient light correction (Which simply doesn't do what they think it does) and the other was an additional leveling G-Code command, that they then used in the Wizard. That is why the wizard breaks when you use an actually good version of Marlin.
     
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  15. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Too bad that we couldn't "cut & paste" the missing code and recompile the good Marlin firmware. That way the wizards won't break.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The code is really bad, and wholly unnecessary, what's really too bad is that we can't separate RoboOS from the specific old version OctoPrint that Robo used and just rewrite the wizard.
     
  17. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Yep, in agreement. Probably would need to re-arrange the panel of Community OS to give a menu spot for wizards. And then do as you say and re-write the wizards to work smoothly in Community OS.

    I wonder if Robo / @Braydon ROBO 3D would have an issue with doing this?
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Braydon would not care if someone did it, but you are not going to get them (Robo) to do it.
     
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