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Unanswered Z offset and filament stuck

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Jason Bates, Feb 26, 2016.

  1. Jason Bates

    Jason Bates New Member

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    i have had my robo r1 plus for over a month now and it has been printing like a champ until tonight. I am printing with pla btw. The printer homes like normal but when it goes to print the first layer it is too close to the bed. This causes it to not be able to extrude and the filament grinds where it gets pulled down into the hot end and now I have my issues. For one the filament broke off right where is is going into the metal part. I'm attached a picture. You can see the red filament in the hole. So first question is how can I get that filament cleared out. Then how can I make sure the nozzle is high enough when I do print again so that I don't have a repeat of this and get the filament stuck. I know about the z offset option just not sure if I need to select a higher number or a lower number for the offset. Please help :). And thank you!
     

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  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    If it's PLA you can use a small torch to melt all the plastic out of there.

    Z Offset, larger negative numbers means further away from the bed.
     
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  3. janot928

    janot928 Active Member

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    redneck way the best way :p
     
  4. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Uhm. I wouldn't do this. Just heat it using the controls and either push filament through, or use a flat head screw driver to remove the brass insert at the top and a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the filament stuck in there.
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Except Mike the picture shows he removed the hotend. So a torch is a totally acceptable means of removing the filament.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I'd remove the nozzle first. I have torched those to clean them, not sure I would suggest the entire hotend.
    Not certain that it would be a problem, but with the nozzle off you can clear the entire hotend.
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I have torched the entire Hexagon hotend, of course as @mark tomlinson suggested after warming it up and breaking the nozzle free. we are not actually talking about torching all the fins of the heatsink, just the lower portion to get the PLA to liquify or totally evaporate within the hotend.
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    It's ok if he had removed the thermistor and heater, which he hasn't.

    Newer versions of the R1+ use a screw in stud thermistor, and taking a torch to that is a bad idea.

    Just plug it back in and heat it with controls.
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Whenever this happens to me I use a penvice and a 1.5mm drill bit, clear out the filament, then hook up and heat, take the nozzle off and use a piece of filament to clear. Probably more work than needed and will be trying what @Mike Kelly said about removing the brass inset next time.

    Different strokes :)
     
  10. david pomerleau

    david pomerleau New Member

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    I had this happen to me and found that one side of the Z access was off. I used 2 business cards and brought the z access down onto them, then by had spun the z access screws to level the z access to the bed. Once I did that the printer was back on track and printing like a champ. also I just removed the hot end leaving it plugged in and preheat it then carefully either push the filament in enough that you will now be able to use longer clean filament to extrude it. Or gentle pus it in a bit then pull it out.
     
  11. david pomerleau

    david pomerleau New Member

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    Sorry I just looked at your pic, I would do what Mike Kelly said heat it up then use some fresh filament to push it out.
     

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