Z-Offset Wizard stuck at step 1 of 4

All the M502 does is reset the flash eprom -- not the firmware.
You have to load that either with the Arduino IDE from source code or from OctoPrint via a HEX dump (at least that used to work).

Flash EPROM (also known as EEPROM -- electrically erasable programmable read-only memory) stores local variables in a bit of RAM that can survive power cycles, but it is not the same as the firmware which controls the printer (and defines default values for many variables).

The M502, M500 reloads the default values from the firmware into the flash eprom.

https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?146,159037

https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/eeprom.html

http://zennmaster.com/random-things...s-eeprom-functions-and-what-that-does-for-you

 

The firmware file link is posted in the R2 FAQ.

 

Won't regret the HS nozzles, those things are sturdy. I went through brass nozzles like tissue paper. Still haven't worn out a hardened steel one -- yet.

 

Z Offset values must be a negative value due to the physical construction of the R2 printer. Positive values would be correct for a Prusa 3D printer, but incorrect for a Robo printer.

Here is another way to think about the Z Offset values. On a Prusa printer, you are asking "How far up do I need to move the extruder assembly to be at the correct height?" Thus you need a positive value. With a Robo printer, you are asking "How far down do I need to move the print bed to be at the correct height?" Thus you need a negative value.

 

If you still get the oozing filament problem, this posting will help:
http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/how-to-upgrade-swap-nozzle.21331/

While it was written for the C2 printer, it is applicable to the R2 printer since they use the same style of hot-end.

When replacing a nozzle, always re-level the print bed since the amount of nozzle sticking out of the hot-end will inevitably be different from the last nozzle.

 

There were issues with the firmware and RoboOS that cropped up in some of their last updates.
Sadly they have mostly dropped the R1, R2, C2 platforms from all except warranty work.

So no further updates are going to be forthcoming from Robo for anything (other than the E3 which is not really a printer they design and build, they just resell it)

So this is something we have tried to sort out as users.

 

Indeed
The gantry style is a decent printer all things considered, they just needed a couple of versions to work out the problems (like they did with the R1 series).

 

@wuidling, The two pieces of the puzzle, RoboOS and Robo modified Marlin firmware, need to be matched up. I undertook a lot of testing of both items on my R2. The best and most correct combination has been posted in the R2 FAQ. Many people coming onto this forum were having similar issues like you. Once they matched up the two items, the problems went away. Please read ( or re-read ) the R2 FAQ.

 

You are correct about the occasional delay to responding to a screen tap, but it is a minor thing.
You are not obligated to use the script, however, it is very easy to edit the script via the Octoprint web-page interface. I supplied the script so as to give some starting points for the various filaments ( priming line parameters, hot-end temps and print bed temps - which can be easily changed to meet your needs )
The initial Flexplate kit comes with one sheet of Buildtak. You can order additional Flexplates and Buildtak sheets from https://www.partsbuilt.com/

 

Nice. Are you using Cura as the slicing software?

 

In the profile, open the Experimental area ( bottom of the profile ) and click on the Use Adaptive Layers option, You will need to have all of the settings visible. Re-slice the model and then re-print it. Compare the finished model to the previous one.