Solved New R1 arrived with broken z-belt-to-bedframe connector.

Hi. I'm hoping someone can help me. My Robo R1 arrived about an hour ago. After unpacking, I lifted the glass bed up a bit off of their magnets and noticed a belt lying right under it, looking like a dead snake. It seems the plastic head on the end of the z-belt has broken from where the Phillips head screw attaches. The belt looks like it broke from the left front side of the bed, just under where the glass sits. Is there an stl file to print that connector? It looks like a nut sits inside it.
I was able to rig the piece in place for the time being by using a bit of twine to hold the belt end in the frame.
After that, however, I am not receiving any temperature reading from the glass bed. The extruder heats up and also shows it's room temp. The heat bed signal is a constant zero. It looks like the connection on the glass is good. I haven't removed the bottom of the printer to check the wiring under there yet. I thought I'd ask others who have already gone through something like this for advice.

 

That is the y-axis belt. It has happened to quite a few people out there. I suspect Robo has had a bad molding run.

You are going to have to pop the bottom off to properly diagnose the heated build plate thermistor. Step one would be to find the wires and measure the resistance.

 

I had the same issue with the bed belt connector (which is actually the x-y plane, moving in the positive and negative y directions) being broken where the nut is in the connecting piece. Oddly enough, mine was also the front connector.

Honestly I simply super glued mine back together and it's been working without any issues, worth a try before going further with that depending on how yours broke.

 

Thank you for your answers. Yep... Y-axis belt it sure is. I'm used to the Leapfrog Creatr's belt that moves the bed up and down. Anyway, I took the bottom off to get to the control board. I expected it to be a pain, but it was a breeze to remove. I found rubber bands to hold the glass on as I tilted the machine. That black ribbon cable splits off into three parts. I immediately saw that the wires for the thermistor/temperature sensor weren't pushed in all the way into their connector. That was it. It's been working well for the past 6 hours. I have noticed, though, that Simplify3d seems to make the printer work faster across all of the auto quality settings. I haven't used MatterControl before today, though. I may just need to tweak the settings. Overall, I am really impressed with this printer. I had printed out a few upgrades parts on my Creatr a few days ago. I was happy to see I didn't need to use them because the company fixed the issues themselves (i.e. z-bar stabilizers built into the top). I can't wait for the 3d collaboration site to go online. Thanks again.

 

If you already have S3D I wouldn't waste your time with MatterControl, it is pretty buggy.

Glad to hear you are all sorted out.

 

Strangely enough, my other connecting piece broke today in the middle of the bed's autoloevel. Fixed this piece as well, but it may benefit Robo to check into their manufacturer on that one

 

Yes sir, that is exactly my plan, except that I'm still in the process of calibrating and optimizing my builds. I'll be posting my current calibration parts shortly to get a feel for what I need to improve and how