1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Solved Leaking Heat Block on Inlet

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by kjfaris, Jun 25, 2016.

  1. kjfaris

    kjfaris New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2016
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    3
    HI,

    I have had my printer an R1 plus for about a month and have been learning, experimenting and lurking on the forums and picking up a lot of good information, thanks all. Everything has been going pretty well until today, I was printing and noticed a couple of blobs on the project, I noticed melted filament coming from the top of the heat block on the inlet side. My power company FPL was very kind and 3/4 thru the project with no storm they gave me a power blip so instead of getting upset I thought it would be a good time to learn how to take the extruder out and see why there was filament coming from the top. I removed the extruder and the entire top was covered with melted filament. I took the nozzle out and made sure it was clear, heat and used a drill bit to clear. The inlet side doesn't appear to have a tapered thread so tightening it wouldn't help. I reassembled everything. In the course of doing this I may have damaged the thermistor wire because I was getting intermittent error messages on my controller "Max Temp Error" I restarted and it went away. However my problem of melted filament leaking out of the inlet continues. Can anyone offer some insight, I have ordered a new E3D V6 kit (not the cheap one I read about here). Sorry for the length, thanks in advance
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Sounds like the hexagom is just done buddy. If you bought the e3dv6 you should consider the m3 stud thermistor
     
  3. kjfaris

    kjfaris New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2016
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    3
    Thanks, that what I thought I called support and they were not helpful, even offered to by a new head, they don't have them and couldn't tell where or how to order one. I know I have to print parts for the e3dv6 so I wanted a reliable hot end. I did order the m3 stud you suggested, will I have any code changes with it? Thanks again
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Nope no firmware changes. To get going the main difference is you need is the quick release plate. To get by you can use tape on your old one. If youd rather i can print and send you one
     
  5. kjfaris

    kjfaris New Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2016
    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    3
    Appreciate the offer, I'll make it work somehow, good experience. It's printing now for about 2 hours with no problem other than an occasional blob here and there. Should be able to hobble through and if I do it right I can always reprint the parts with the new head if the other are not up to par. Anything else you suggest I do while I am at it?

    Thanks
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Nkt at all. Youll remove the cooling fan mount hook up the e3d and stud thermistor.power on and running (i suggest reusing the 30 watt heater from the hexagon )

    Look onto cooling fans on thingiverse while your waiting :)
     

Share This Page