3D modelling - cube vs plain, will it print?

When modelling for 3D printing, I am wondering if a plain will print? Since a plain is made out an infinite thin line, I am sure it won't work for 3D printing because there is no depth or layers.

I usually modelling using a cube and using extrudes and movement and angels, I eventually come up with a model. That aim am sure will print since the walls have depth and will be translated into layers

I notice that a lot of ready made models such as human figures are made from thin walls. No depth to the walls (skin) of the figure. If you put this into slic3r and make it have support material, such as medium fill, will it print?
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You are dealing with two different aspects here.

1. A "plane" has a single face (normally outwards from the model), and since it has only one face if you just went in, say Blender3d, and created a plane and tried to print it. You'd end up with errors about Non-Manifold Edges. And you'll confuse the slicer all to heck.

2. STL by default has no description of "wall depth." Everything is a single set of faces. However, a good model is "water tight" (re: no Non-Manifold Edges). As a result, it gives the slicer a complete object it can consider to be solid to create shells around and lay down infill if required.

I'd personally, not recommend zero-infill for most character models (animals, humans, etc). Even at five to six shells I've found them to be too fragile right off the printer. As well as, without infill, if you have any horizontal flat surfaces or sharp angles it becomes hard to print as there isn't any internal supporting material.

I tend to pick an infill between 30 - 50% for all my characters I'm working on when it comes to printing. I've used the "Only infill where needed" before, and I found it works. However, it has the same issues as zero-infill as it makes for a weaker model in the majority case as it only builds up infill in tricky spots (flat faces, sharp angles, etc).

In truth, I like 50% infill as it gives the printed character a nice weight and strength. It doesn't feel like a "cheap plastic toy" that will break if you put it in your pocket. Like what you get from a carnival/zoo machine. I've had lot more complements on that weight as people aren't scared to actually hold and look at them. As most folks have this vision that home printed 3d stuff is fragile and not durable.

 

Thanks for the reply

I'm using Cinema 4d

That fill setting you mention in in slic3r?


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Good post thanks for the info I plan on printing some character models stuff I'll take into account. I was also wondering about objects without a backing before nice to have that cleared up.

 

Usually there is a way to add "thickness" to something like that, which should solve that problem. I know in rhino 3d you can. Make it water tight, and it will slice fine as is, from what Ive seen. Then you can add infill in slic3r. .

 

If modelling 2 cubes side by side, (touching), will they be fused together in the print,

How would you print an enclosed structure with gears, and prevent the parts from sticking to each other? I'm kinda thinking the supports would help separate the parts and once printed, those supports come off!?


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Yes, all the infill options are Slic3r options.

Not sure I understand the question. Are you suggesting you have a model which is only partly done. Say the front half of a mask, but it has no rear polygon faces? Then you'll need to use a solidification modifier (like "Skin" in blender) or connect the sides to make a flat back.

Most 3d software provides "Skin" modifiers and stuff to give depths to planes, but that depends on your software, and I can only speak of Blender3d these days. As I've not used Rhino, Maya, etc in ages.

Yes, but the touching faces may create outer shells at the connection point making it a weaker connection point. So it is best things be modeled correctly without internal faces.

Sorry I can't speak first hand about this. The basic idea is you need space at least equal to your print resolution (e.g. .1mm for 100 micron, .2mm for 200 microns, etc) between parts. I've seen discussions of at least 2x this if you have spreading of material issues. But every video I've seen printing out such things are always printing them with support and breaking the support material away. This is sorta out of my area of experience at this point. So I can just give theoretical suggestions.