1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Solved ALL axes homing centers off after E3D v6 install

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Connor1998, Oct 24, 2021.

  1. Connor1998

    Connor1998 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2021
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    1
    Hi Robo 3D community. I just recently installed the E3D v6 hotend to my robo 3D R1+ And everything works as should.. except for the home positions for all 3 axes.
    The Z-axis is stuck about 5in above the build plate.

    The Y-axis is off by a couple inches

    The X-axis is by far the worst where it thinks it is all the way left at the center of the build plate. This leads to a horrible grinding from the belt slipping when it tries to go outside the build plate to the right.
    The 9 point calibration does not work correctly, I have checked my z limit switches which are fine, and I have made sure the build area is correct in mattercontrol 2.0. The problem persists. Is there a way to zero all of the home positions? Any insight is appreciated.
     
  2. fred3d

    fred3d Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2019
    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    14
    I've run into a similar problem with my R1 plus in the past. I can't answer the x/y problem but you may be able to resolve the z trouble.

    Consider to power off the printer and manually drop the z-carriage by twisting the drive screws. Bring both to the bed, perhaps a millimeter or two above, then drop each side until you hear the click of the microswitch. The idea is to get the click to match the same amount of movement for each side.

    Leave the carriage in the "down-click" position when you power up. The machine should be able to recognize that it's at z-zero and re-calibrate the z-position from there.

    Check your microswitches for the other axes to ensure they are registering properly.
     
    Connor1998 likes this.
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,597
    Likes Received:
    7,311
    For each axis that is NOT stopping when it goes to the home position CHECK the home switch for that axis.
    The way it works is that the Arduino will drive the carriage all the way until it sees the home switch trigger.
    If it does NOT see that then they will hit the physical limit and "grind" as the belt jumps and the steppers are forced to drop steps.
    That is what the grinding noise is...
     
  4. Connor1998

    Connor1998 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2021
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    1
    It seems as so all of the limit switches are working. At least the Z and Y, though their home positions are significantly off. The X-axis is odd though because when I run the homing command in mattercontrol, the X-axis moves right, instead of left where the home position used to be.

    Is there also an x limit switch on the right side? I cannot notice one.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,597
    Likes Received:
    7,311
    There are exactly 3 limit switches on the R1/R1+ (the two Z switches on the crossbar are wired to the same end-stop on the RAMPS so -- only counts as one)

    If you look at the printer and where the HOME position is you can find all of them (the Y axis one is under the bed so you need to lift the bed plate to see it).

    IF one or more of the Axis will ONLY step away from the switch/home then that is a stuck ON switch (if the switch is on the controller will not step towards home any more). Normally it drives each axis / stepper until the home switch triggers. If the switch is already triggered then it will only move away. If (for example) one of the Z switches were stuck then the cross bar would only go UP for thw Z and not down.

    Pretty simple electronics/control although if you are not used to it it seems complex :)

    I would start with the switches and follwo-up with sanity checking the correct firmware is loaded because if you loaded the wrong firmware on one (like Beta firmware on an R1 or R1 firmware on an R1+, etc) then they would do odd things since the steps/axis are totally different. If you did NOT reload the firmware from stock -- then that is not an issue. And I would not suggest loading new firmware without a specific thing you know it will fix. Working firmware is good firmware.
     
    Connor1998 likes this.
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,597
    Likes Received:
    7,311
    If the axis is NOT going all the way to home then it is getting a false HOME signal from the switch or the wires or the RAMPS itself (least likely).
     
  7. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2018
    Messages:
    423
    Likes Received:
    49
    Check the electrical cable tension & movement going to the hot end & carriage. I've had this issue a number of times, and it was hard to analyze since everything looks fine. The cable sometimes pulls on the carriage which prevents the Z switches from working correctly. The cable under the bed sometimes bunches up, and causes issues as well. I had to grind down the center of the plastic between the rails under the bed to allow more room for the heating bed's cable to pass through without getting caught.
     
  8. Connor1998

    Connor1998 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2021
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    1
    So, I have not installed any differing firmware than what was stock. I have checked wiring on all of the switches and it is all correct. I based it off of this image.
    upload_2021-11-2_15-8-32.png
    All Z-axis switches are in place. I am at a pretty big loss as to what is going on.
    Some tests I did run include swapping the polarity of the limit switch wires, as well as messing with settings in matter control 2.0 to try and bring it back to the original home position.
    Oddly when I click home on mattercontrol the control brings it to the center of the build plate in the x & y axes, and it rests about 4 inches above the build plate in the z. It thinks that x-zero is at the center of the build plate and does not allow me to bring the extruder to the left towards the limit switch. When I try to print a file the control brings it beyond the build plate to the right in the x-axis, and keeps raising it higher in the z.
    Is there possible firmware updates that may be able to fix this? Could it be switching to a newer version of mattercontrol is culprit?My printer is pretty useless at this point..
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,597
    Likes Received:
    7,311
    Can't speak for matter control (do not use it)
    however the fact that the Z continues to go up means one or both of your Z limit switches is OPEN (they are closed by default when it is NOT on the bed). If the switches are closed mechanically then the wire has an open circuit for one of them back to the RAMPS board.

    Home (even repeatedly) should not raise the Z every time.

    With it situated anywhgere and the Z off the bed do this from a GCode terminal :


    M119;

    It will report the state of the endstops and then paste it back here
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,597
    Likes Received:
    7,311
  11. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2018
    Messages:
    423
    Likes Received:
    49
    This happened to my printer on a few occasions. The z axis end stop switches had to be adjusted. A few other times, the cable going into the hot end pulled away from the regular position on the hanger on the top of the case, and it had to be adjusted.
     
  12. Connor1998

    Connor1998 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2021
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    1
    @mark tomlinson This is the endstop status.

    "M119
    x_min: TRIGGERED
    y_min: open
    z_min: TRIGGERED
    M105...."

    At this time the extruder sits at the center of the build plate about 6 inches above. The x and z limit switches are not being physically pressed. So these are normally closed switches? When they are not physically being pressed should the code report triggered or open?

    Also, regarding mattercontrol what other splicer softwares are compatible with the R1+? On robos website they say that cura is for the R2 and other models only, and the only splicer software listed for the R1+ is mattercontrol. I have downloaded cura recently and tried messing with it, but it gives me the same problems as I am having using mattercontrol.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,597
    Likes Received:
    7,311
    The Z switches (both of them) are normally pressed closed by the crossbar they are up against. Then when the extruder hits the bed it lifts the crossbar until one or both trigger. The X and Y are reverse of that and are OPEN until the endstop is TRIGGERED where the Z is always CLOSED until it hits home and then report TRIGGERED

    One of yours (at least one) is currently triggered in that M119 Which means they are AT HOME (or at least that is what the RAMPS board is seeing. So either the switch or the wiring or the RAMPS is lying to you :)

    X is HOME and Y is not. .

    The software you use as a host program/slicer is entirely up to you, just about any one of them can be used if configured correctly.
    MatterControl, RepetierHost, Cura and on the pro side : Simplify3d.

    You just need to get a profile/configuration for the slicer and it will work.

    MatterControl and Cura Robo provided versions that included the configurations already done.

    These are not likely the source of your troubles I think you have a wiring or hardware issue.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,597
    Likes Received:
    7,311
    You should be able to use the M119 command and manually open/close the switches and see them respond.
    If not time to start tracing the wires :) or testing the switches with a multimeter (power off and use OHMS to see when they open/close)
    Pull the wires and meter the switches directly.
     
    Connor1998 likes this.
  15. Connor1998

    Connor1998 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2021
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    1
    So, I seem to have fixed the problem and I am very confused but elated. I was doing exactly what you just said, manually pressing the x limit switch and running the M119 command to see the report. Well when I would press the x limit switch, the z limit switch would chane status. I checked the wires, and the correct wires are run to the correct pins at least based off of the image above (x-limit to x pins z-limit to z pins etc..), but I switched them just in case. Sure enough the printer begins homing correctly and I have no idea why but the x & z limit switch pins are happy swapped.. Ill take it. Thanks for the help @mark tomlinson.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  16. Connor1998

    Connor1998 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2021
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    1
    @mark tomlinson Do you have a list of all G & M codes used for R1+ with Marlin firmware?

    Also, I am now looking to install the LCD screen I have had for months waiting on a working printer, Do you know of any resources to installing and making the firmware compatible with the screen?
     
  17. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2018
    Messages:
    423
    Likes Received:
    49
    Which screen do you have? You have to edit the firmware to enable Marlin to recognize it. Each screen has a library which has to be installed. Some common screens already have the library installed.
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,597
    Likes Received:
    7,311
    https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/

    and for the LCD there pick which one you like either the RepRap Discount LCD (4 line display) or the RepRap Full graphic controller.
    Neither is very expensive, get them from PrintedSoild or Amazon or whever you like :)

    Here is a video:

     

Share This Page