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Solved Auto Z adjust stopped working.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by KTMDirtFace, Oct 14, 2015.

  1. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Not sure what happened but I'm not seeing my lead screws turning at all during prints ( even big ones )

    Auto level runs fine.

    Having a hard time getting things to stick now.

    Using simplify3d.. it "may" have broke when i upgraded to 3.0.2
     
  2. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Nevermind they are moving, they just move a lot less than the old screws.

    Looks like its maybe an extrusion problem.. I put a new nozzle on it..same problems. ( E3D V6 )

    -1 z offset doesn't stick very well.

    -0.9 z offset causes blobs/bubbles/tears and extrusion problems..and it peels up
     
    #2 KTMDirtFace, Oct 14, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2015
  3. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Ok its definitely something to do with the auto level/adjusting

    Just tried to print a part, the right side printed nice and squished the left had trouble sticking.

    Something i noticed when I do the auto level is when it probes on the left or middle the entire carage kinda of Twists and one stop switch releases only on the left. when it probes on the right side both switches release equally. I think? this happend when I put the lead screw update on and I don't know why.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Ok so i noticed my entire hot end and stepper motor was a little loose on the carrige, so I reefed the screws down tight and it helped some.

    I also have adjusted the left and right side with a sheet of paper under it so it slides under each side.

    Its better but the left is still not smashed down as good as the right, also im getting all this blobbing?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. janot928

    janot928 Active Member

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    maybe try to deactivate the G29 command (for the auto bed leveling and) and and adjust your Z leveling on the fly. it shouldn't something like this (=) nor like that () but more like that (_) . I hope you get what i mean.

    What you can also do is
    -use a thiker layer as first layer (I almost always use a 0.3mm for my first layer)
    -add a raft


    Note:

    when leveling your Z axis, The second rod might move while you calibrate the first one
     
  6. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    I stopped using the autolevel. I just manual adjust the first layer while it's printing the skirt. Works everytime.
     
  7. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    How do you manually adjust it? just turn the rods? ( while holding the other one )

    I even tried to make one side higher than the other to compensate and it doesnt matter still the right side is super smashed down and the left is not.

    It seems like when its probing the left side there is no motor on that side so no weight and the switch releases easier/earlier.

    I don't know out of ideas. I am using a 3d printed carrage with the wirechain that seems to have got some slop in it now. Gonna print a new carrage in ABS on my Rep2.. see if that helps.

    Edit: is the blobbing in my second pic from the nozzle being too close on that side?
    If I up my Z offset then the left side really wont stick. I really don't know what I changed to cause this never had this problem before.
     
    #7 KTMDirtFace, Oct 16, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2015
  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    In simplify3d I bumped the first layer default from 90% to 250%
    And it seems to be printing ok now... maybe I just had not printed something this large in awhile

    [​IMG]
     
  9. janot928

    janot928 Active Member

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    well if it works :p

    and yes, if you whant to adjust it just hold one rod and turn the second (only works if the G29 is not active)
     
    KTMDirtFace likes this.

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