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Fillament not sticking to bed

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by KAT, Sep 9, 2013.

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  1. KAT

    KAT New Member

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    Hi,

    I'm writing after some time now to get something to print out of this investment so far with no success.

    I tried many materials to use on the bed including blue painters tape and the PLA filament still does not stick to the bed surface!!! Even changed filaments from other manufacturers and I got the same results. The molten filament scatters around the bed or gathers like fur balls around the extruder!


    I'm getting tired trying! and would consider selling this printer if things still don't work out.
     
  2. KAT

    KAT New Member

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    I also increased the heat to 200C and used stick glue on top of the blue tape but no use!
     
  3. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    Have you check your nozzle distance from the bed? Make sure that it's close enough but not too close, you should be able to slide a piece of paper under it with just a little bit of friction.
     
  4. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    My guess would be your nozzle is too high check it like seshan suggested.
     
  5. KAT

    KAT New Member

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    Hi, Guys.

    Yes the nozzle was a bit like 1 mm higher then a piece of paper.... But something at least managed to print.

    Still something in the middle of the print make the object slip away from its base rendering the final output useless...

    Other go fine.

    I guess it's trial and error so far. The geom. of an object plays a big role I notice. Complex objects are harder to print on this printer than simple ones.
     
  6. Ben Lindstrom

    Ben Lindstrom Active Member

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    Is the parts that are having issue is above the print platform in the Z direction? Are you sure that your geometry has a 45 degree angle or less? If it is over 45 degrees either you need to print slower or you need supports. This is typical for most 3d printers. Some handle it a bit better than others (see Yoda and the Yoda with Chin support version on thingaverse).
     
  7. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Getting your parts to stick is one of the harder parts of learning 3D printing.
    If the nozzle is 1mm higher than a piece of paper at z-home, nothing is going to stick.

    Here are some tips.

    -slide the carriage towards the edge of the z-axis where the limit switch is mounted.
    -Adjust the limit switch on the z-axis so that when you first contact the limit switch, a thin object (business card, sheet of paper, .050mm shim) can just slide underneath the hot end. Or download one of the dial indicator holders from the mods section.
    -slide the carriage towards the opposite end of the build plate
    -adjust that z-axis lead screw until you can just fit the thin object underneath the hot end.
    -Repeat these steps until you have a nice constant gap across the whole build plate when you just make contact to the z-axis limit switch (i.e. your Z=0 position)
    Do this before every print until you get comfortable with the machine.

    -Painters tape. Wipe it down with IPA or use the glue stick as you've already tried.

    -first layer. Thick, hot, and slow. 200C or warmer. 200 or even 300 micron layer height. fan off. 20mm/s or slower until you get comfortable.

    -start with objects with relatively large bases.

    -If all else fails, use a raft. The bottom of your part will be kind of ugly, but a raft is very forgiving.

    As you get comfortable getting your parts to stick to a level bed, you will be able to increase complexity in no time!
     
  8. Patrick Elliott

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    I've been using a single sheet of paper, drop the Z until the paper drags when I try to remove it. I've also started using wax on the bed. first layer sticks great and the wax makes it release with ease.
     
  9. KAT

    KAT New Member

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    @Printed Solid
    Very good tips. Indeed it seems this printer needs more work on the Z-axis. It's also to mis-align it if you somehow lift the extruder or trying to fill filament it might jump off the over the bolts and you have to re-insert the hole Z-axis components inside the holes.....

    I will try the Z-axis mod and see....
     
  10. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Kat the 1mm high above the paper is way to high remember you are printing at 100,200, 300 microns and that is .1mm,.2mm or.3mm in height respectively

    That is your issue right there
    the z mod will really help in getting things close but you need to drastically reduce the height 2013-09-07 12.15.37.jpg here is a sample print from my robo a few days back using ABS which is much harder to work with this is a good pic because you can see how flat my first layer is which means my nozzle is at the proper height about .2mm high. IT is also good because you can see where I was playing with the z manually that single raised line in the blue area that sort of stands out is the filament being laid down way to high the filament is not squished down at all as it is properly everywhere else and you can see how much squishing is being done form the .4 nozzle which it would be if not flattened out to the proper .2mm print level (.2 being 200 microns) If your first layer actually your first few lines of filament does not look pretty similar you are off in some way.

    There are two directions too high and too low if you filament is rounded like the single line in this image it is too high
    2013-06-27 22.46.37.jpg
    if the path on the print bed is almost translucent it is too low. This will sometimes still work but all it does is lead to a clogged extruder Notice the line out side the pyramid that is the skirt and it should be solid in color and this is not. Notice the difference in the skirts in both images the top one is the way it should look.
    Even though this did print successfully on this occasion knowing what I now know I would have stopped and adjusted and restarted this print

    Important, in either case stop printing immediately adjust and restart to test again


    The other things you are citing have more to do with "prints" lifting after several layers have been successfully gone done. ABS is finicky and it will lift and warp under all kinds of circumstances PLA is much friendlier.

    My current setup for PLA is about 185-195C extruder temp and no heat on the heat bed. I am printing on regular glass using only hairspray to hold the first layer down after the first 1-2 layers it should be good.

    As was stated previously there are lots of solutions to your issues but we do not have all of the data regarding your particular setup and exactly what you saw so there may be other solutions here that work as well.

    The printer is a nice little printer and it should work for you and I think once you get the hang of getting the setup correct you will also see this

    good luck and repost if you still have issues.
     
  11. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Never heard of wax use before interesting might have to give it a try sometime
     
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