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Getting prints to stick to print bed

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by JDM_, Jun 26, 2013.

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  1. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    This is a good place to list tips on getting prints to adhere to the print bed.

    I am having an issue getting my PLA prints to stick to Kapton tape. I had 1 print curl up and another pop off completely. I am thinking of spraying some Aquanet hairspray on the Kapton tape. Has anyone tried this?
     
    #1 JDM_, Jun 26, 2013
  2. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    #2 CAMBO3D, Jun 26, 2013
  3. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    I dusted some Aquanet hairspray on the print bed and the prints are sticking much better.
     
    #3 JDM_, Jun 26, 2013
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  4. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I was under the impression the PLA did not like to stick to kapton tap simply use the blue tape that is what everyone seems to be having success with
     
    #4 tesseract, Jun 26, 2013
  5. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    I think ABS sticks well to Kapton tape and I didn't want to keep switching it out. I will be printing mostly with ABS because I'm a Filastruder backer.
     
    #5 JDM_, Jun 26, 2013
  6. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    yeah Kapton Tape is the stuff for ABS or the abs slurry. I am probably gonna go that route
     
    #6 tesseract, Jun 26, 2013
  7. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    So far Aquanet hairspray is working on the Kapton tape for PLA. I printing a larger print now that curled up on me earlier. I'll know soon if it going to solve the issue.
     
    #7 JDM_, Jun 26, 2013
  8. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    are you heating the bed when you use PLA
     
    #8 tesseract, Jun 26, 2013
  9. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    Yes. Heating the bed to 55.
    This print lifted at the corners the first tome I tried it. Now with Aquanet it's printing perfectly.
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1372291712.626376.jpg
     
    #9 JDM_, Jun 26, 2013
  10. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I was told by several people that PLA does not like heat you may want to lower that or even set it to zero and give that a shot. That is what mine is set to for PLA it is 0
     
    #10 tesseract, Jun 26, 2013
  11. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    just realized I didn't even think about adding supports on this print. Going to be a couple interesting spots. My fingers are crossted!
     
    #11 JDM_, Jun 26, 2013
  12. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    Ok. I was just following the RoBo setup guide. I will turn it down now.
     
    #12 JDM_, Jun 26, 2013
  13. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I did that also there ares some thing in there are general defaults but don't work well for PLA. I think it cam from a ABS guideline
     
    #13 tesseract, Jun 26, 2013
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  14. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    I'm going to reduce it by 5 degrees every couple minutes until I'm at zero.
     
    #14 JDM_, Jun 26, 2013
  15. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I would still find some blue tape or masking tape and put it on the pcb board as it does protect it from having to pry the PLA off when a print is finished and it is fairly easy to change out when you go to ABS
     
    #15 tesseract, Jun 26, 2013
  16. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I think your luck will change dramatically with the heat removed and keep the tape in mind. Even the tape needs replacing every 5 or 6 prints. Even if you get it completely of the tape and leave nothing visible left it simply stops sticking to the tape and you just have to replace
     
    #16 tesseract, Jun 26, 2013
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  17. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    I currently have Kapton tape on the bed. That should be protecting the bed when I pry off the PLA object right? I'm using a circuit spatula.
     
    #17 JDM_, Jun 26, 2013
  18. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    JDM. Some people recommend printing PLA at 65C or so. I've done both. Seems to work fine for me at room temperature with small parts, but I'm guessing bigger prints could benefit from some heat. I believe 65C is around the glass transition temp for PLA, so keeping the bed around there should help with warpage.

    I'm a huge fan of the aquanet hairspray approach by the way. Cheap and easy. Washes off with water.
    Just cover up the mechanicals so that you don't gum them up.
     
    #18 Printed Solid, Jun 26, 2013
  19. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Printed do you print directly on the pcb then or on a sheet of glass or aluminium when printing PLA
     
    #19 tesseract, Jun 26, 2013
  20. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    aluminum bed on one machine. Acrylic on the other. aluminum is heated, acrylic is not.
    I'd be pretty nervous printing directly on the heater board. I've scuffed up both of my beds while removing prints. For aluminum or acrylic, you can just sand them down. If that happens with a heater board, you could zap yourself if you forget to turn the heat off first or damage the board.
     
    #20 Printed Solid, Jun 26, 2013
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