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Minimum thread size that the ROBO3D is capable of printing

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by tesseract, Mar 26, 2013.

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  1. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    So based on the specs we know what do you think is the tiniest thread size we could actually print say on the inside of hole and then print a bolt to go into it. Or would it be more reliable to tap a hole to given thread size. I was just curious about making a totally printed object
     
    #1 tesseract, Mar 26, 2013
  2. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    I don't think we will know until we get the printer... I'm thinking it might be best to plan on tapping anything fine after it's been printed..
     
    #2 JDM_, Mar 26, 2013
  3. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    It might be better to tap it, anyone know how well printed plastic taps?
     
    #3 Seshan, Mar 26, 2013
  4. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    From what I've read, most people make a smaller hole and tap to size. Nylon apparently holds a thread quite well. Don't know about PLA but ABS should work in lightweight applications.
     
    #4 1d1, Mar 26, 2013
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  5. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I think coarse threads do OK. Acme thread geometry would work well, but that's not really for small things and is more designed to transmit motion.

    Nylon, ABS, wood, you can probably undersize the hole and let the screw tap the hole for you. I've done this with ABS and it works well. PLA is more brittle, so you might want to tap it.

    Another good option is to 'insert print' a nut. i.e. do a z-pause and drop it in.

    Shift your paradigm away from conventional machining processes. You have a whole new set of design tools available!
     
    #5 Printed Solid, Mar 30, 2013
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  6. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    You are completely right Paradigm shift taking place now.
    Drop an actual nut in the print Hah love it
    You could the cover the nut with more material except for the bolt hole
    LOVE IT
    Thanks
     
    #6 tesseract, Mar 30, 2013
  7. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    Printed Solid have you done this before? Does it work?
    "'insert print' a nut. i.e. do a z-pause and drop it in"
     
    #7 JDM_, Mar 31, 2013
  8. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    I wonder how the plastic would stick to the nut,(cold metal, you may have to warm it up a bit) you could always design a nut shape into then object the glue a nut in afterwards.
     
    #8 Seshan, Mar 31, 2013
  9. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    @JDM: I've done it with magnets, not nuts yet. I have a project that I am working on where I may try it. I have made parts where there is an undersize hole and you just let the screw tap itself. You actually see this pretty commonly in toys.

    @Seshan: It doesn't need to stick. You just design a square shaped cavity in your part and drop in the nut when the z-height gets high enough. You do need to be careful about designing in clearance so that you're not dragging your brass nozzle across your steel nut!
     
    #9 Printed Solid, Mar 31, 2013
  10. tompeel1

    tompeel1 New Member

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    Erm.... been thinking a z-pause would be awesome for a while now... How do I do this? this is going to be epic! Rasp-Pi all in one cases! Good quality threads making things adjustable/removable with a long life! Spill the beans Please!?
     
    #10 tompeel1, Dec 12, 2013
  11. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    you are goin to have to print over it as well so keep that in mind
     
    #11 tesseract, Dec 12, 2013
  12. tompeel1

    tompeel1 New Member

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    yea quite a bridge i know but bolts right now would be cool to hide on the inside of the creations!
     
    #12 tompeel1, Dec 12, 2013
  13. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    it's not really even a bridge. The nut would be a support. You just have to be careful about when you drop it in so you don't crash it.
    Tesseract has some threads about z-height pauses for color change. you could follow those instructions.
     
    #13 Printed Solid, Dec 13, 2013
  14. scotta

    scotta Active Member

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    Rather than just dropping in a nut and expecting to print over it, how about dropping in a nut and a thin preprinted plastic cover. Then restart printing, that way it should be easier to print over
     
    #14 scotta, Dec 14, 2013
  15. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Scotta that wouldn't work so well, you would basically be doing the equivalent of a cold solder joint if you are familiar with electronics. You would essentially be putting new plastic ontop of old plastic. Just design in the space for the nut, once you get to the full height of the nut pause, drop in the nut, and continue printing. It works with no problem. I've done it in ABS PLA and Nylon.

    Tapping also works, it really depends on the application of the printed object. Nylon holds tapped threads incredibly well.
     
    #15 Michael DiFilippo, Dec 14, 2013
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