OK, this is odd. Temped the heated and nozzle...

I have been having problems extruding lately, and figured I would put a temp gun on everything and see if I was just that far off on temps.

Set heat bed to 50c/122F and it was 122-127F

Set nozzle to 100c/212F and it was 97-102F

Set nozzle to 225C and wouldnt get over 190F

This is a snap on temp gun thats accurate, and went all over trying to find the hotspot. I even temped the heating element and it wasnt much hotter than anything else. I did each test separately so it wasnt drawing current from both.

Has anyone ever temped the nozzle?? How could it possibly extrude under 200F?

Also note:
E3D hotend
updated firmware
raised temp in firmware, but no other changes made(need to change for thermistor?)
using XXL screen, no PC on it.
Printed fine this weekend(hours and hours on with the e3d)

 

Hookup up PC to it, ran it up to 270c. I temped the hottest spot on the hot end and it was 205C, Extruded ABS great....but is it really 205C?

bed is now at 26c, temps 26c
nozzle says its 30c temps 28c

Something is wrong somewhere.....just don't know what to do to get it accurate. Probably a setting or something, but the e3d didn't come with any instructions and only ones I could find were nearly worthless generic ones. I don't even know what thermistor they come with so I don't know if I need to change setting, and not sure what to even change it to. So far I have seen people change it to #1, #5, and #8....so I guess no one really knows or maybe there is no difference. Looks like mine I set to #1.

 

If your using an infrared temp gun.. you will never get an accurate reading on a 3d printer.

http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/ind...nd-build-surface-temperature-calibration.848/

 

But the only reason they should not be accurate is because of the surface being temped...a polished metal surface will give goofy temps for sure. But I am hitting spots that should temp fine with infrared (temped similar things hundreds and hundreds of times) . Its similar to a polished head on a nitro rc car, they don't easily read correctly but its still possible to get it to read accurately. If the e3d was anodized black or any color really....it would be very simple to read it. Unless Im missing some weird phenomenon that happens when its installed on a 3d printer(anything is possible).

But either way, it could just be getting an oddball reading....just seems like I should be able to get a hint of something close.

@270 on hotend it shows 205 on temp gun

 

Racegrafix,
Did you see this E3D blog post http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=extras/blog/getblog&blog_id=19 . They discuss theMarlin #defines for the two thermistor types that they have shipped. It should be 5 for the newer ones.

 

Perfect Steve...never saw that but it should help for sure. Thanks!