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Removing stuck print from the print bed

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Soupaboy, Oct 26, 2013.

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  1. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    hello, I have a friend with a 3d printer and he shared with me a cool trick for removing print from a printed without breaking them.

    do your normal thing with blue tape or hairspray but then when the print finishes get a can of keyboard cleaner (pressured air) hold it upsidedown and spray (this shoots out the liquid air) this causes the blue tape to release its death grip ;).

    I believe it also works on hairspray. GOOD LUCK and please tell me if this method worked for you! :)
     
    #1 Soupaboy, Oct 26, 2013
  2. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    if you try this just MAKE SURE your bed is completely cooled down the upside down air can will shoot out an actual liquid that will freeze skin and other things the rapid change in temp can cause things to break especially glass so think about this first.

    Some other tips
    1. let the print cool completely
    2. a short quick tap on the side of the print with the handle of screw driver slid along the beds surface into the print can knock it loose.
    3. sometimes heat the bed to 35-40 after the print has cooled allows it to be removed a bit easier
    4. Cricut spatula blades are very thing usually cna be slid in between the print and the glass starting the removal process
     
    #2 tesseract, Oct 26, 2013
  3. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    ok. spy hose are some good points, the spatula is probably a cheaper long term idea anyway :)
     
    #3 Soupaboy, Oct 26, 2013
  4. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    the cricut spatula is almost a mandatory tool if you don't have one I suggest getting one
     
    #4 tesseract, Oct 26, 2013
  5. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    I'm waiting until mid November to buy extra filament and tools so I don't have them pointlessly arou
    nd the house (have not reviewed the printer yet)
     
    #5 Soupaboy, Oct 26, 2013
  6. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    I never recommend shock cooling something. It tends to make things brittle (even at these lower temperatures).

    Based on how yesterday and today has gone with mine, you may want to keep waiting. I'll keep appraised of how good it is after support fixes my issues (local to the area the business is located in, bought local because I like to keep local).
     
    #6 Mattchu, Oct 26, 2013
  7. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    what happened with your setup Mattchu
     
    #7 tesseract, Oct 26, 2013
  8. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    I don't want to threadjack, but my issue is getting it to stick/oozing. Ended up buying some supplies (painter's tape, hairspray) as well as grabbing some tools from work (laser based temperature gage, calipers). I'll be running more tests tonight.

    I may grab some shim stock from storage as well and my .0005" test indicator; I'd love to know exactly how high I'd need it to be to print effectively, and tram/shim the bed if needed.
     
    #8 Mattchu, Oct 26, 2013
  9. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    it is more of a process you go through as there is defined height it is based on the print settings used on each print. The print characteristics differ from the different types of filament type and color. The process however works fairly well and if you use it you will be printing usually pretty quickly and of higher quality much sooner.

    The basics are this adjust the x axis on both sides using the z rods to get the x axis as level as possible then set the height using the z adjustment screw to be approximately the thickness of a business card but this is only the first step. Then you do a print and make sure it has skirts then based on what the skirts look like either continue on with the print or stop the print readjust the z height screw and restart and repeat this until the skirt looks good and you can continue.

    A good layer is flattened and solid. Skipping or little or no filament being put down indicates things are too low if the filament does not stick or it peels off or it gets dragged around by the nozzle or simply pops off it a VERY STRONG indication the z height is too high.

    You are also right this should have probably been done in your own thread but if you do need further help you can ask me and I will try and help
     
    #9 tesseract, Oct 26, 2013
  10. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    let's create a thread. I'm feeling amped and adventurous, this is the first time all day.
     
    #10 Mattchu, Oct 26, 2013
  11. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    I created a new thread located here. http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/ind...cking-or-not-oozing-and-other-fun-stuff.1148/

    any help would be highly accepted and appreciated.
     
    #11 Mattchu, Oct 27, 2013
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