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Changing nozzle on hexagon hotend

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Trama, Feb 2, 2016.

  1. Trama

    Trama Member

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    So I am trying to swap out nozzles because I print in a lot of carbon fiber. I can't get the nozzle to budge and I am not having any luck finding an instructional vid.

    Any advice would be great


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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You want to loosen it hot.
    When you put the new one in tighten it hot.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Basically use two wrenches. One to hold the heater block so it does not turn/move and the other to loosen/tighten the nozzle itself.
     
  4. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Hot as in 200c + or around 110. I was trying 110 and could not get it to move. Feels like I need to take the hotend off entirely to do it.


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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Hot as in 260c I believe is what they suggested for the E3D. The Hexagon is similar as far as the brass nozzles are concerned.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The issue is that normal nozzles are brass and the heater block is aluminum or steel so they expand/contract at different rates.
    You do the tightening hot so that when it cools down it stays tight.

    We used to call it hot torque (before my 3D printing days)
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Needless to say (but I will) be careful :)
     
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  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I put gloves on to do it, or I'm guaranteed to drop the hot nozzle onto my hand when I take it off.
     
  9. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Thanks for the info. I will attempt it again in the morning.


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  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @Trama I use a small crescent wrench and a 7mm or 8(I can't exactly recall) wrench. I remove and I set the nozzle on the bed cold then heat it that way I have more room to work, not the easiest way I'm sure but works for me :)
     
  11. Ben Allgor

    Ben Allgor New Member

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    Nozzle must seat against heat break . Turn nozzle all the way in when cold, and back out 1/2 turn . Then heat to 260C and tighten nozzle. Some nozzles are hard to put in all the way the first time. Good to have a small gap on outside so you know it is against the Heat break.


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  12. Trama

    Trama Member

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    I'm also noticing the new nozzle is a touch shorter then the old one. Which will be a problem for my fan shrouds because my clearance is so small. Is there anyway to drop the whole assembly about 1 mm


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  13. JOAQUIN PICCI

    JOAQUIN PICCI Member

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    I broke the small tube on a hexagon hotend while i was trying to tighten it
     
  14. Ben Allgor

    Ben Allgor New Member

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    Z


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  15. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Yes the z height. I really don't want to have to rebuild my shrouds


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  16. Ben Allgor

    Ben Allgor New Member

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    I am sorry. The Z was an accident. Don't know how I did it.


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  17. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Lol. Ok


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  18. Ben Allgor

    Ben Allgor New Member

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    Maybe you can turn the heat break little farther into the heat sink. Can you modify the shrouds by blocking part of the opening and cutting larger opening in the bottom so the air is directed more downward. I had to do this while I printed a fan shroud that was 10mm lower for the volcano hot end.


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  19. Trama

    Trama Member

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    Yea I can. I am just being lazy and didn't want to have to do that


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  20. Ben Allgor

    Ben Allgor New Member

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    I think I got it backwards. With the heat break, and it was a bad idea anyway. The heat break would be loose in the heat Sink.


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