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Upgrades

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Mandinga, Jan 25, 2016.

  1. Mandinga

    Mandinga New Member

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    Hello Everyone,

    What upgrades do you recommend for the R1+?

    I am trying to find profiles that will allow me to print at the 50 micron resolution for matter control

    Fix the cooling issues with the printer (cooling to improve bridging with stock parts)

    Replicating finer detail is practically not happening in addition to what look lime bumps in random areas.

    Any suggestions appreciated.
     
  2. Sonny's Robo3D

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  3. Mandinga

    Mandinga New Member

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    Hello Sonny,

    Thanks for the links, I am definitely trying the oilier, Will the oiler be a good idea to use with ABS as well? Any suggestions for fan ducts with stock parts? I already did the feet and they work quite nicely. The dampeners are a little weird Not sure if I need them with the R1+. I need to get ninja flex filament as well huh. Hmm. Any profiles or stories people can share about printing at resolutions sub 100 microns (IE 50 microns)?
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can leave on the oiler for any filament type. I have not seen it hurt anything (and I have tried everything).
    However, it will really only help when using PLA.
     
  5. Mandinga

    Mandinga New Member

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    I'll definitely do that, My printer seems stable enough without the Z axis dampner, there is a rubber piece that looks alot like that upgrade in the R1+. The next thing to figure out is getting hher to print from the SD card. Will post updates as I print these and get them installed. No hits on the cooling ducts for the stock heating element and parts?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have one printer with a fan duct for the parts fan and one with just the stock fan (no duct). The no-duct one is the detail printer (0.25 nozzle). I don't see a lot of difference. The stock fans don't move a huge amount of air (just enough to get the job done) so I am not convinced it matters unless you are swapping that fan for something beefier.
     
  7. Mandinga

    Mandinga New Member

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    Ok then we can skip the fan duct, since you mention nozzles, what is the stock nozzle on the R1+ and where do I get smaller nozzles for detail work? I'm trying to prototype toys, I'm guessing that fine details aren't gonna be reproduced by this printer very well and i'll have to go the SLA route for miniatures and anything smaller than 3 inches.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The nozzle is a 0.4mm
    E3D compatible nozzles fit a Hexagon (the standard nozzles, not the E3D volcano nozzles).
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    As for fine details it does a good job with a small nozzle considering it is FDM. For really superior details at small/fine resolutions you need SLA or DLP.
     
  10. Mandinga

    Mandinga New Member

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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Two wrenches and a lot of care?

    :)

    1) Set the temperature to 240C (or a bit more)

    2) Raise the hot end so that the nozzle is at least 3″ above the bed

    3) Use a wrench (16mm spanner will work) to grip the heater block (to avoid inadvertently turning the heating block and ruining the thermistor and heater wires and heat break)

    4) While gripping the heater block use a M2.5 Hex Wrench loosen the nozzle from the hotend.

    5) Turn the hot end temperature OFF

    6) After the nozzle has cooled, remove the nozzle the rest of the way

    7) As with above, grip the heater block to ensure the heater block does not turn.

    8) With a new nozzle, carefully thread the new nozzle onto the threaded rod

    9) VERY IMPORTANT – make sure that the interior of the nozzle seats against the threaded heat break (for a proper seal) AND that the nozzle seats against the heater block (to ensure adequate heat transfer). It may be necessary to slightly rotate the heater core and threaded rod to make sure both conditions are met.

    10) Double check that the thermistor and heater wires have not been comprised.

    11) Set the temp to 240C and make sure the nozzle is still snug


    (these are modified instructions from E3D to more conform with what we have)
     
  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Can't say if those will fit or not. The comments indicate it worked with a Prusa, but they don't give enough detail about them to be certain.

    For sure if they are E3D compatible nozzles then they will work.
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I hardly ever trust Amazon reviews since there are so many from shills. The description specifically says Makerbot Mk8 nozzles. The Mk8 nozzles do not fit and E3D or Hexagon.
     
    Printed Solid and mark tomlinson like this.
  15. Mandinga

    Mandinga New Member

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    So are there any nozzles you can link me too tha are compatible for the size I'm looking for?
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    E3D sells them, if you are in the US then @Printed Solid (printedsolid.com) does as well.
    There are a lot of others out there.
     
  17. Bruce Jenkins

    Bruce Jenkins Member

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    So are the E3D and Hexagon nozzles interchangable? (In other words if I can use the E3D nozzles on the stock Hexagon) ?
     
  18. Bruce Jenkins

    Bruce Jenkins Member

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  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Except for the E3D volcano nozzles, yes.

    This is a volcano nozzle the difference should be obvious :)

    http://e3d-online.com/Volcano-Extra-Nozzle-1.75mmx0.60mm



    [P.S. no need to double post across threads. It will get seen in one thread.]
     

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