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Solved Partial hot end obstruction?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by thomas49065, May 9, 2016.

  1. thomas49065

    thomas49065 New Member

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    Robo 3d r1+ stock hot end. Was running a 17hour PLA print and about hour 10 started getting terrible under-fill and the filament was stripped. Went to start again but now with the tip complete up off the bed and feeding filament it still strips like the print head is dead against the bed. The flow seems slow and thinner then before. Tried to season with oil and the tube lube that came with printer still same issue. Switched to ABS same issue get material out of hot end but seems to be obstructed in some way, keeps stripping with the hot end 2 inches up off the bed. And help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I did try increasing flow rate and feed rate made no noticeable difference.
     
    #1 thomas49065, May 9, 2016
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You have a clog. Function of the oiler is to avoid the clog, often once you get one you need to unclog the nozzle.
    You can try a few different approaches to remove it. I think he addressed this in the second video here:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/helpful-videos-novice-expert.7478/

    I would remove the brass nozzle and clean it that way (with a torch).

    However care is required since you don't want to damage the hotend during removal and reinstallation and that should be done with it hot. Let me know if the video is not enough to get you going (I have not watched it in a while).
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, May 9, 2016
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  3. robocad

    robocad Member

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    As mark said it will take some deconstructing to remove the clog but the problem with the hexagon is the nozzle is practically welded on, i was not able to wrench it off. Torching it would require you remove the heater/thermistor first which would be easy except that the set screws strip almost instantly. Unscrewing the heatbreak from the heatsink would work too except that unscrew the setscrew that holds that doesnt do anything and the heatbreak will bend easily if you try to unscrew it. Using any amount of force with a wrench will cause the entire hotend to deform as its cheap aluminum which will introduce its own clog.

    In short the hexagon is a great hotend until its not then its garbage.
     
    #3 robocad, May 9, 2016
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is not a maintainable part for sure. Repairing it is difficult. The plus side is that a hex is cheap to replace, but not free. Many folks opt for the E3D (which IS easy to repair). I really wish Robo offered it as an upgrade option that you could buy with the printer. Some like @Printed Solid will sell it that way :)
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, May 9, 2016
  5. thomas49065

    thomas49065 New Member

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    I seem to be running my printer 24x7 with all the orders I have. A second printer is happening soon, but in that case what hot end would you recommend? I was reading on this when I first got the printer but I think I was considering the evod6??? cant remember the exact nomenclature. The one with the tube going all the way to the hot end. But since I am running the living crap out of this thing what would you recommend? Most work has been PLA but want to start working ABS more usually 100mic to 200mic prints. Would like to be able to do some of the flexible material also.
     
    #5 thomas49065, May 9, 2016
  6. thomas49065

    thomas49065 New Member

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    Also what is this tube lube stuff for lol think i used it wrong, sorry childish i know but the name cracks me up
     
    #6 thomas49065, May 9, 2016
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The tube lube is a grease for the threaded rods. I use an e3d as most members to. It will run the flexible and abs but the issue qith abs and the robo is abs sucks ;-) its very hard to print with. The e3d probably wont helo with that.

    The hex is repairable.if your very careful. I used a crecent wrench and a 7mm wrench (a good one, cheap ones i have are.a loose fit) i was able to get my nozzle off no problem just do it hot and be careful.
     
    #7 Geof, May 9, 2016
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Study the material properties you need vs. available filaments (there are a lot more than PLA/ABS).
    ABS just happens to be the one that is trickiest to get printing well on the Robo (no heated chamber).

    There is seldom a need specific to ABS and everything else you can get to print fairly easily on the Robo.
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, May 10, 2016

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