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Unresolved Continuing issues... MINTEMP TRIGGERED

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by juicius, Feb 3, 2016.

  1. juicius

    juicius New Member

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    I've about had it with this printer. Status so far... I had a short in the heated bed wires. Robo3D sent me a new heated bed, and the clip, and eventually a new arduino board when the print still failed. Replaced everything, and still, no go. The log reported some unrealistic temps, and dropped off completely. A new themistor ordered and installed but the same error as below:

    <-Error:0
    <-: Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
    <-Error:printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)

    I've checked all the connections and replaced what I could, namely a brand new stud type thermistor and the arduino board. The upper board (sorry, not sure the technical term) where the scorch marks from the short is was not replaced so I don't know if that's an issue or not.

    From my other readings, it sounds like the printer is not getting a valid reading from the thermistor and it's shutting everything down, but I have anew thermistor installed with all the wiring inspected so I don't know what the issue might be. Any ideas?
     

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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Make sure the thermistor is landed correctly on the RAMPS (the top board, the bottom one is an Arduino Mega).
    I can't post a photo as I do not have that customized RAMPS 1.4 they throw in the R1 these days.

    Assuming the thermistor is landed on the RAMPS correctly and that it is not broken (or a bad wire to it) then if the software is still showing 0 for the temperature it might be a faulty RAMPS.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is frustrating, but in reality there is very little electronics in there (a good thing) cost-wise.
    You can replace all of it for less than $50 if you shop around, less than a $100 without even trying.

    It is also fairly simple (and open) electronics which makes working on it easier :)
     
  4. juicius

    juicius New Member

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    Thanks, I'll check again this evening.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good luck. If the connector was showing the heat damage it could be a damaged board.
    You can replace it with a standard RAMPS 1.4 (all over amazon for 15-20 dollars or so) but under warranty I'd get them to send a replacement.
     
    Geof likes this.
  6. juicius

    juicius New Member

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    Rechecked everything and everything is connected where they should be. I can't control the printer at all anymore from MatterControl, and with the XXL controller, I can't move the Z-, only Z+. X and Y work in both directions. I'll contact Robo3D help desk.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Z minus issue may be because an Z endstop is reporting itself open (which means "ON THE BED") even if it is not on the bed.
    Check the two switches on the crossbar and make sure they are seated correctly. The bar should be holding the switch down on both of them if it is NOT on the bed.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If the switches are positioned correctly then make sure the wires to them from the RAMPS are connected.
     
  9. Crabdude

    Crabdude New Member

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    Sorry to bring this thread back, but was there a solution to the issue? I'm having similar issues with the mintemp triggered error and wanted to know what worked for you.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Make sure you check everything discussed.
     
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @Crabdude start a new thread with details and ill help.you out buddy.
     
  12. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    I feel like I've gotten this issue a lot when the hotend has a clog/jam which came from me trying to improperly remove the filament so I could change spools. Clear the clog by removing the extruder from your machine (I think it's two screws on the side of the extruder). Then while carefully handling the hotend (Use something to protect yourself and the printer from the heat, I use Teflon covered channel locks with no/very little pressure to hold the heater block. If you see filament sticking out, make sure the hot end is up to temp and gently pull the remaining filament out with a tool that has strong grip such as needle nose pliers. If you can't see any filament and you can't see through the end of the hotend, you have two choices you can disassemble your hotend (Which I honestly don't recommend because its somewhat complicated and I find I always do it wrong and get leaks which make the prints turn out funny,and I suck at it in general) Or while holding the hotend with the Teflon covered channel locks take another piece of filament (8 -12 inches should do) and make sure its as straight as possible and push it into the top of the hot end while holding the heater block off the bed with the channel locks. With enough patience and slight and even pressure (Be gentle when pushing the filament through, you are stronger than you think and the metal is more malleable because its hot ) the remaining filament will extrude and you will be able to pull out your removal piece of filament and the clog should be gone. Then turn the printer off and back on and the message should be gone.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    [QUOTE="darcangeloel, post: 76135, member: 11733"(I think it's two screws on the side of the extruder).[/QUOTE]

    For the R1 and Beta this is correct, the R1+ has the quick release and uses one screw UNDER the extruder to hold that plate in place.
     

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