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Solved ABS issues with Robo 3d R1 (Clog Alert)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by darcangeloel, May 24, 2016.

  1. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    I brought this off amazon and it clogged my extruder the worst I've ever had and this is a brand new extruder (Hexagon). What I think is odd is I have never had this issue with PLA. Does ABS just suck to print. I also think this could be just a problem with the filament I brought (Shitament ) I had to remove my themistor and heater block and wrap the hotend in aluminum foil and burn the abs out on my grill at 700 F. Any thoughts on this? Also does it hurt the hotend to burn the ABS out? I used it without issue after this running PLA. Man that wasted alot of time. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated, I think going forward I just won't use ABS.

    Shitament I bought: http://www.amazon.com/1-75mm-Black-...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
     
    #1 darcangeloel, May 24, 2016
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    In my opinion,YES, but not for a tendency to clog. It has many issues that make it difficult to print on the Robo and there are many other filament types with better properties that are easier to print.

    ABS does not have a natural tendency to clog. The filament might be out of spec... You can measure a few feet of it (the diameter) and see if it s consistent and correct.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
  3. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    One thing I did notice is on the package it suggests printing at 220 c I was printing at 235 c (The default for matter control) could this be causing a problem or a clog?

    Thanks!
     
    #3 darcangeloel, May 24, 2016
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Perhaps, you can certainly do a small test print colder and see. 220c is low for ABS, it is normally at least 230c, but if that is what the label suggests -- try it. A 20mm test cube or something. If you go too cold it will stop extruding. You might just try hotter (240-245) and see if your clogs improve.
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Print temperatures are environment, printer and filament specific. My best temperature for printing any given filament will be different than yours. You best temperature for one spool may well be different for another :)
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
  6. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Hmm, This actually makes a great deal of sense. My wife has banner my Robo to the garage. I created an enclosure to help with this problem. The weather has been somewhat cold (Given the time of year) could it have cooled too much in the extruder and gotten stuck?
     
    #6 darcangeloel, May 24, 2016
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sure. The extruder should be able to maintain temperature, but if you were at the edge of where the filament is printable then a small drop might push you into the non-printable zone. Go hotter. If you are too hot ABS and PLA both tend to get stringy... if your prints a re not stringing you can try a few degrees hotter. You should not have to go above 245 for ABS.
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
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  8. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    In regards to my other question about burning out clogs. Is this an okay method for clearing clogs? It seemed to be working fairly well after and I haven't had any problems.
     
    #8 darcangeloel, May 24, 2016
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Absolutely fine approach. The best way to do it I have found is remove the brass nozzle and take a small torch to it :)
    If it jams in the heat break then do the whole hotend (with the thermistor and heater core removed).
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
  10. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Lol. Thats good to know. I've just used the grill and a peice of foil to keep the flames from hitting it directly. How hot does your tourch get? That shit must reek when you do that lol.
     
    #10 darcangeloel, May 24, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2016
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is a small propane torch, Google says 1,995 degrees Celsius
    So.. hot enough :)
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
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  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    #12 Geof, May 24, 2016
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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not quite as overkill :)

    • Flame temperature up to 2,400 degrees Fahrenheit / 1,315 degrees Celsius
    But It will absolutely ge the job done.
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Lol it makes much more sense then the propane torch with 40lb tank lol
     
    #14 Geof, May 24, 2016
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  15. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Can you guys recommend anything for us to soak it in? IE after I burn it out with my grill should I clean the interior of the hotend with anything outside of making sure all the little chared crums come out?
     
    #15 darcangeloel, May 24, 2016
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Typically after the torch its 100% clear.

    If its not you can shove some filament through there to knock some gunk out. If its stuck...more torch
     
    #16 Geof, May 24, 2016
  17. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Lol this is my method as well. I never want to take the hotend apart as it always leaks when I try to put it back together. Will this hurt the hotend long term?
     
    #17 darcangeloel, May 24, 2016
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    When you put it back togather you need to heat uo the hotend and give the nozzle a little extra torque (heat seal it)

    I dont have any issue torching any of my hotends
     
    #18 Geof, May 24, 2016
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, snug it in tight while the hotend is HOT.
    Does NOT need a lot of torque, but snug it in hot.
     
    #19 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
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