1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Solved Extruder heater problem

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by PickyBiker, May 25, 2016.

  1. PickyBiker

    PickyBiker Active Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2014
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    26
    This printer has been working great for many months but has developed a problem with the extruder heater. Preheating he extruder gets it to the set temperature just fine and it stays there until the printing starts. After the printing starts, the temperature slowly begins to drop and over a period of about 2 minutes it is down 10 degrees and trips a hardware error. Reloading MatterControl enables me to preheat the extruder again and it climbs right back up to the set temperature.

    Thinking it was a power problem, I measured the 12v supply when the system is idle, when it is preheating, and when it is printing. The voltage at the power supply never wavers from 12.14v by more than about 0.04v.

    I then decided it might be the heater, so I replaced it with a new one but nothing changed.

    Tightening the connections on the ramps card didn't help either.

    All that's left that I can think of is a a worn wire somewhere because of the constant movement or a ramps card that can no longer supply enough power to the heater.

    What confuses me is that it works just fine until it starts printing.

    Any thoughts on what else this might be?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    It almost has to be either the RAMPS itself or the wiring.
    Really nothing else you haven't already eliminated.

    Generally it is the heater core itself wearing out, but you already swapped that :)
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Is your thermistor secure ? I had issues where it was loose causing squirrely issues
     
  4. PickyBiker

    PickyBiker Active Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2014
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    26

    Since the ramps can hold the temp when it is preheated, I am guessing that when the movement starts, there is an intermittent in a heater wire somewhere. I will run a new pair of wires from the ramps to the heater and report back here.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    And as @Geof make sure the thermistor is secure. Usually the thermistor will cause sudden/more drastic changes, but give it a look.
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Mine would wobble giving somewhere like 15 to 30 deg difference after i started a print

    (Talking the canistor type.on the newer + model)
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  7. PickyBiker

    PickyBiker Active Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2014
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    26
    Okay, changing the wires did not help. I am now going to reinstall the thermistor.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Good luck. The only things in that circuit are the thermistor, wire, ramps so ... not much left :)
     
    Geof likes this.
  9. PickyBiker

    PickyBiker Active Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2014
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    26
    Well I'm stumped. I removed and reinstalled the thermistor, no help. The extruder and bed thermistors agree on about 20 degrees when idle and they both seem to climb normally when I preheat. It still holds at 270 degrees when idle and drops slowly when I start printing. When I measure the voltage at the supply, I get 12.14 +- .04. When I measure that the extruder, I get something I didn't expect. I figured the heater would be on, 12V or off , 0v but that is not what happens. From a cold start, preheat results in about 11.5v. When it reaches about 260 degrees, it tapers down and varies between 6v - 9v and holds the temp at 270. So it is variable, not just on or off. Now the interesting part is that when I start to print, it goes back up to about 11.4v or 11.5v and stays there, but the temperature is still gradually dropping.

    I know 270 is kind of high, but I have printed a ton of PETG parts at that temperature and never had a problem until 2 days ago. Is the drop from the power supply to the extruder 0.6v - 0.7v too high?

    This almost looks like the extrusion of the PETG is absorbing the heat faster than the heater can produce it. I am going to break out the oscilloscope to see if there is something weird going on with the PS or the Ramps to Extruder heater.

    Any other thoughts are welcome.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    What size heater core are you using?
    Hexagon stock is 30w
    E3D default is 25w
    You can buy a 40w core for a few bucks on Amazon.

    Just curious which one you have.It may be that the core is getting overloaded.
     
    Geof likes this.
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    270 seems insanely high for petg???? Does it work at 250ish????
     
  12. PickyBiker

    PickyBiker Active Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2014
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    26
    The two question answers are:
    The PETG clogs at 260 so 270 is what I have been printing with. I am using the default E3D heater so I guess it is 25w.

    Finally making some progress on this problem. With the oscilloscope connected to the heater wires, I can now see that it is not variable voltage, but rather PWM. It switches between 12v and 0v and simply adjusts the on time to control the temp. When it is not printing it hovers around 55-60% duty cycle. When printing, it goes to 100% duty cycle.

    I have found the difference between preheat and actual printing, it is the material cooling fan. If it starts printing and I stop the fan, it easily maintains the 270 degrees. As soon as I release the fan, it starts to drop. Why it worked for so long and suddenly became a problem is a mystery to me.

    My next option is to take the advice of Mark Tomlinson and get a 40w heater. I feel confident that will fix this.
     
    Geof and mark tomlinson like this.
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,917
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    I thought about telling you that it was PWM when I saw you comments about the voltages, but figured you would appreciate proving it to yourself :). Bed heater is the same way unless you switch to Bang-Bang mode in the firmware (normally only done if you use an external relay to drive power to the bed heater).

    Good luck. I personally have had zero issues with the 40w heater cores. I really should have said something about that sooner, but this thread now has a not of good data in it :)
    Thanks for sticking with it and documenting it.
     
    Geof likes this.
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Id have to imagine pronting at 270 and clogging at 260 for petg is a failing heater. I know print times fluctuade but wow ! Lol.

    There is tons of great info in this thread for sure! Thank you very much for keeping it going @PickyBiker
     
  15. PickyBiker

    PickyBiker Active Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2014
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    26
    Thanks Mark. I really appreciate your help and the help of others on this site.

    Goef, thank you also for the comments on PETG temp being too high. I am going to start a new thread asking for help configuring MatterControl with a Robo 3D for PETG. I may be extruding to fast, traveling too fast or something else.
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    I found petg works great for me 50-60mm/s. Cooling fans off

    I run it 245 to 240c. 70 heatbed (temps will be different but good information at times for reference)

    I am not.using matter control but should work the same.


    For extrusion if you extrude 100mm of filament you should use 100mm of filament. If not and you run petg all the time calibrate the extruder for it. The extrusion multipliers arnt the best way of setting up. Also make sure you measure the diameter of filament that you measure over a few feet and average and input in the slicer.
     
  17. PickyBiker

    PickyBiker Active Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2014
    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    26
    I marked this one resolved.
    I installed the 40w heater for the extruder and that resolved the temperature variation issue. I adjusted the firmware so that when it wants to extrude 100mm of filament, that is exactly what it does. I can now print at 260 degrees.

    Thanks all for the help.
     
    mark tomlinson and Geof like this.

Share This Page