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Solved Hotend not close enough to the bed

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by maxhebus, May 26, 2016.

  1. maxhebus

    maxhebus Member

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    Me again. :)

    Now, I have a new problem.
    I'm pre heating ok. As soon as the bed and the extruder have reached the pre-defined temperatures, the extruder first zeroing and then the bed level process is happening with good values. No big gaps in Z from one point to the other.
    As soon as the bed levelling is done, the extruder moves up in Z for about 5mm and goes in XY position to start the print. Sadly, the extruder stays at that Z distance from the bed for the first layer and start to extrude material.
    As you can imagine, this is a problem....

    I have the ROBO3D R1+
    E3D hotend.

    The last thing I did, was to change the Max temp for the bed with arduino. I did not try anything else as I'm scared to Frack it up. :)

    Any idea?

    Thanks
    Stephane
     
    #1 maxhebus, May 26, 2016
    Last edited: May 26, 2016
  2. TomerO

    TomerO Member

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    Can you post your startup script?

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
     
  3. maxhebus

    maxhebus Member

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    Hi Tomer.
    Not sure what you want. Do you need me to copy past part of the configh or

    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
    M565 Z-1 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
    G29 ; run auto-level
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If all you changed was the thermistor type and max temp numbers in the config you should be ok.

    A z offset of 1.0 seems high to me but maybe not. Are you sure your z axis is level ? Id bet a mictoswitch is out of place after the e3d install. Happened when i did mine too
     
  5. maxhebus

    maxhebus Member

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    How do I make sure the micro switches are not out of place? They look Ok so far....
    Any way to be sure they do their job correctly?
    The interesting part being that I've been able to print correctly after the E3D install.
    And yes, the Z axis is leveled. :)
     
    #5 maxhebus, May 27, 2016
    Last edited: May 27, 2016
  6. 3D Printer Man

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    Make sure you z-offset is 0
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would start by taking the Z up of the bed and center the X/Y. Slowly lower the Z until you see or hear one of he Z home switches trigger. Then see how close the other one is.If you move the carriage around the bed and do this you should see that both switches are close to the same height that they want to trigger at. If not (one is lower/higher) then you need to adjust the position of the holder that switch (loosen the screw,raise/lower) so that it is very close to the same for both.
     
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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If one switch on a side were stuck and never triggering you could still get a fairly close leveling if the X and Y were fairly level mechanically.
     
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  9. 3D Printer Man

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    I had this problem too, for me easy fix. Just lift the x-axis and extruder and make sure that the hex nut is correctly positioned, make sure the x-axis has an equal high the the bed on both sides.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I am sure you mean the Z (up and down are Z)
     
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  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Please disregard this message as it could cause you some serious issues.
     
  12. maxhebus

    maxhebus Member

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    I did indeed have one of my nuts (left) way lower than the other one. ;)
    I did push in place the left side and did re try to print.

    :(

    All centring and levelling Ok but still hot end starting to print with a Z at 0.45 like before.

    Do I have to reboot/reset /something to make the fixed nut working?
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    No you shouldn't have to. What's your z offset set at?

    Is it still at 1.0? Is this matter control?
     
  14. maxhebus

    maxhebus Member

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    Hey Geof.

    G28; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000; lift z axis by 5mm
    M565 Z-1; sets auto-level z offset to 5mm
    G29; auto-level

    What do you mean by Matter control?

    What I do not understand is that all G28 and G29 looks to work OK.... It's that it stays at .45 in Z for the printing...
    My primary layer Height is set at 0.2000 (I've never changed that)
     
  15. maxhebus

    maxhebus Member

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    Sooooo.....
    I did re install the original firmware with just the modifications for the Max temp and now it looks to work just fine.

    Looks like it was something wrong with the update firmware for E3D called Robo3dR1V2_M8_E3D.

    Finally, looks like I'm going to be able to print with my printer. Crossing my fingers and lighting magic candles to 3D printer gods. :)

    Thanks again guys for being on the case.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That firmware is for an R1, not an R1+ ... which do you have?
     
  17. maxhebus

    maxhebus Member

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    I have the R1+
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The you have the incorrect firmware. The R1 had 8mm thread rods and the R1+ has leadscrews.
    The Z steps/mm are not even close to the same.

    You want the R1+ Firmware V2 ¶

     
    #18 mark tomlinson, May 28, 2016
    Last edited: May 28, 2016
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  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you used the E3D thermistor then you will need to customize the CONFIGURATION.H for the correct thermistor type.
    I don't think a pre-modified version for the R1+ and E3D is out there.

    If you used the (suggested) MetalStud thermistor with the E3D then you don't have to edit the firmware at all.
     
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  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Where did you pull a. E3d firmware from? I'm not seeing it on the firmware page
     

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