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Solved Printer Goes Nuts After Printing Raft

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by sandman450, Aug 10, 2016.

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  1. sandman450

    sandman450 New Member

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    Hey all, I just received my second Robo 3D R1+ Printer yesterday and I have not gotten one successful print in 14 attempts. I have read through the Auto Bed Level Thread, Watched YouTube Videos, and nothing I have done is fixing the issue. I have checked both brass nuts and endstops and nothing appears to be out of kilter. I just received it yesterday direct from Robo 3D and was hoping this one would be a winner. I am using Robo 3D Filament, both ABS and PLA and am using their stock recommendations for Nozzle and Bed Heat Settings.

    I am printing a raft with all my parts and as soon as the last layer of the raft is done and it starts printing the actual part, the nozzle keeps lifting up off the raft intermittently and it just becomes a glob of filament. I have also printed without a raft and on the 4th layer, it always goes haywire and the nozzle again stars printing a half mm off the surface. I have trying changing the offset and have used all of the different settings. I also use Aqua Net for good adhesion to the bed. I have tried printing the part in PLA, ABS and same thing. I am using MatterControl 7" Android Printer Controller. The printer has the latest firmware. I am at my wits end.....I know hardly any production printer worked perfectly out of the box. My last Robo 3D R1 started out great out of the box then went to crap and I sold it to a friend out of aggravation but decided to give Robo 3D another shot. Any help is much appreciated. Tired of wasting my filament!!!!!!
     
    #1 sandman450, Aug 10, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
  2. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you have done some of the routine checks. Odd that it would lift the nozzle during a layer. When I first got my printer I had to go over it and snug Ali the bolts, make sure belt tension was correct, and clean and lube all the smooth rods and leadscrews. Also make sure fan to the ramps is running correctly and that all connections to the ramps are properly seated.

    Have you done anything like update the firmware? Have you tried printing just the calibration cube? What slicer are you using?

    Obviously you have been using a Robo already and probably have gone through all this before. If so and the z is still moving erratically, then you may needed to check the stepper drivers voltage at the ramps. The new Robo users independent z drivers instead of one. So one might not be adjusted correctly.

    It's an odd issue if in reading your post correctly.
     
    #2 danzca6, Aug 10, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    A video would also help.
     
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  4. sandman450

    sandman450 New Member

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    Thanks for the replies. As far as anything I have done to the printer, just unboxed it, flashed the V2 firmware, and loaded up filament. I tried to print a calibration circle model that comes in MatterControl but as soon as it starts the 4th layer, it starts extruding above the surface and ends up mushing around the filament into a tangled mess. The rafts print absolutely flawless, nice, even lines, the cross hatch patterns are uniform, devoid of any blobs or missing sections. The rafts always look perfect...it's just when it starts printing the actual model, it goes kaput. I am using MatterControl with built in Matter Slice as I have always done in the past with my previous Robo 3D V1+.
    I will see if I can capture some video of the printer failing and post it.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Exactly how and what did you load?
    It is easy to get the incorrect firmware loaded (and seldom is reloading it needed).

    Your symptoms sound like incorrect version (the different versions of the Robo have very different Z axis constants).
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you meant that you loaded "R1+ Firmware V2" there is really nothing in there you want and may perhaps be somethings you do not. Nothing of note really changed from the original R1+ version -> "Lead Screw Upgrade Firmware" (so you might consider just going back to that)

    Still, show us exactly what is happening and we can see if we can help.
     
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  7. sandman450

    sandman450 New Member

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  8. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    On the 1.6.10 issue, there is a fix for that. I posted it in the comments of the firmware download page. Just a name of a struct needs to be globally changed. Not sure what the arduino guys did with that newer version, but that is a work around.

    Hopefully a video will show some clues. Does anything seem to stick or any odd noises during that fourth layer? Really sorry to hear you are having issues with another Robo.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  10. sandman450

    sandman450 New Member

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    I had no issues flashing the firmware. I did the global edit as suggested in a comment at the bottom of the page and it went off without a hitch. Do you guys think I should apply the Lead Screw Upgrade firmware instead? (Provided I can still get the file.) I just tried to level the X Axis switches and had 3 more prints fail. Possible the V2 firmware is buggy and causing the nozzle to rise up and print in the air on the 4th layers?
     
  11. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    you can try the leadscrew upgrade version. The files are still out there on the firmware page. Though your issue sounds mechanical.
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Anything is possible.
    Robo is on an odd/old branch marlin and you should not upgrade the firmware unless you have a specific goal in mind that the new firmware will address. The old R1+ firmware is fine (called LeadScrew update firmware on that referenced page).
     
  13. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Get rid of that raft, and print directly on the bed! Unless you absolutely need it. Have you tried printing without a Raft?
     
  14. sandman450

    sandman450 New Member

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    Just to let everyone know that helped me out. The issue ended up being the V 2.0 firmware after all. I flashed it back to the Lead Screw Upgrade Firmware, and she has been churning out beautiful prints consistently now. The only thing bugging me now is that I keep getting lifting and warping when I print ABS. My original Robo 3D R1+ used to print absolutely perfect ABS parts but this printer is just not willing to give in as far as ABS Filament is concerned. I have tried everything from Elmer's Glue Stick, Aqua Net, sometimes, both at the same time, a few drops of Acetone on the bed then rubbing in some abs to create a sticky surface but nothing is working. PLA prints out perfectly but ABS is irking me.
     
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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sadly with ABS it is nature of the beast. It needs a heated chamber.
    Can you print it? Yes. With a lot of effort to find the setup that works.

    My suggestion is (as always) define why you want ABS. Is it a high heat deflection (use BluPrint) is it just overall strength? (Use alloy 910 or a nylon or PolyCarbonate). There are very few situations that really call for ABS. When it does you need to print with as little (zero is best) air flow around the material and as cool as possible for the filament to flow. Sometimes directed heat (like an IR lamp) aimed at the print will help.

    http://taulman3d.com/how-to-choose.html
     
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  16. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    After reading so many negative posts about ABS I'm thinking I won't even bother trying it out.
    I hope you get your issue sorted out, I'm going to just walk around ABS and try others suggested.
    Good luck.
     
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  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    ABS is just so darn picky about heat management and the lack of a good way to manage it (the heated chamber) is the killer.
     
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  18. sandman450

    sandman450 New Member

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    I never had a sealed chamber around my printer or anything on my first Robo 3d R1+. I would just set it up, walk away and keep the door shut to my man cave and that was enough. I was getting killer prints time after time with ABS with regular consistency. I wonder what the disparity is between this new Robo 3D and my first one?? Maybe go up on the temps? I am using all Robo 3D filaments.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It may be the filament, not the printer.
    Every spool is different :)

    Environment is huge though for ABS.

    If you don't want to hassle with it -- choose something no-hassle.

    I have printed a lot of ABS... just not recently. I spent a year doing nothing but ABS.
    Since then I have had occasions to use it, but those have dwindled to the point now that I can't really imagine ever needing to again.
     
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