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Unanswered PETG Print Issues

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Toro1966, Sep 26, 2016.

  1. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Hey guys - I've printed with PETG several times, but the last couple of days I seem to be having issues. The PETG I am using is Inland (eSun) PETG. I was printing with the green I have had for a couple of months. Came out great with no issues. My print settings were 215/80. I decided to shift to the new boxes I got. Blue and Yellow. They are also Inland and both were bought a couple of weeks ago and were sealed.

    When I tried printing the yellow, it clogged/jammed twice. Same thing with the blue. I was printing up to 220C. So I decided I probably needed to up the temp. I just started trying to print again with the blue and we'll see how it goes, printing at 230 now. So here are my specific questions:

    1 - I noticed it would get a filament booger on the nozzle - especially at the first few layers. What causes that? Overextrusion? If so, I assume I just lower the extrusion multiplier - correct?
    2 - Is there a safe point below which I shouldn't put the extrusion multiplier? I.e. I am at 96 now - what's the lowest I can reliably go - or doesn't it matter?
    3 - What is the difference between Extrusion Multiplier in S3D and "flow" on he LCD controller? Which takes precedence? I ask because I had the Extrusion Multiplier set at 98 but the LCD shows Flow at 100 when it is printing.
    4 - For stringing should I be adjusting the retraction more? I am afraid to lower the temp too much because it clogged at 220 and I am only printing at 230 now. I am getting minor stringing at 230.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi !

    1.petg likes to ooze alot. The boogers are pretty normal.

    2.the extrusion rate is whatever works without showing underextrusion in your model IMO. If your calibrated and have minor adjustments doing it this way is fine.
    3.essentially the same thing. If your ext. Multiplier is 96.00 in your gcode then id assume 100% on the lcd would be 100% of 96%. That is my assumption not fact.
    4. If it clogs at 220 and doesnt at 230 split the difference maybe. Yes retraction may help with that a bit
     
  3. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks Geof!
     
  4. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Yeah mess with your reaction. I print petg at 244 and 80 and have printed 3lbs of it (one print) without boogers or warping. Never noticed much by adjusting extrusion but when I turned up the temp it stopped sticking to my nozzle
     
    #4 Nathanfish, Sep 27, 2016
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2016
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is another filament type that the standard quick test for best extrusion temp fails on :)
    Many nylon blends are the same in that they act too hot (if they were PLA or ABS) but are really too cold.
     
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  6. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks guys - I printed at 230 and got the entire print done. It was an 8 hour print and came out pretty good, but it still has the bumps/zits. I'll take pictures and post later, but reducing the extrusion multiplier fixed most of the blobbing - though there were still a couple of boogers I found on the print. I watched it and I see that the bumps/zits are occurring at the end of the layer when it stops printing and goes to reposition. The S3D troubleshooting guide says to adjust the coast setting - so I think I will try that. Going to try a few test prints and change the retraction/coast settings to see if I can get the zits to go away. I'll also try to up it to 240 - though I did get some stringing so I don't know if raising the temp will help or hurt that.
     
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  7. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Ok - I have reached new heights of frustration. I have literally tried almost every setting, read every article on the web, and searched every forum for a way to fix these blobs/zits. The best I have been able to do is to set the layer on optimize instead of random, which gives me a a seam down the print. Extremely frustrating. There has got to be a way to fix this.

    I tried coast all the way up to 5mm. Started negatively affecting layer adhesion, but bumps were still there. Tried wipe, but all it did was leave a spiral in my print where the wipe action was. Tried lowering extrusion to as low as 91% with no luck. Printed slower, printed faster (30mm-50mm). Turned on retract between layers, turned on retract only between islands, etc. Same issue.

    It's definitely not retraction related. It happens at the end of a layer when the nozzle moves to the next layer. I am now at the point where I might have to just accept the crappy seam... But it shouldn't be that way.

    Any thoughts?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Have you reached out to the S3D folks?
    The couple of times I had issues (totally me, not the software) they were able to add some pointers.

    My suspicion is that you are going to need to tweak the temperature knob -- maybe in addition to something else.

    I would have thought that retract between layers would have had a positive impact (and if not enough then increase the retraction) at least a bit, but if not then that rather rules out retraction as the culprit.
     

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