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How to replace nozzle?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Jay K, Dec 3, 2016.

  1. Jay K

    Jay K New Member

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    I have a Robo 3D+ and I'm wondering how you all go about replacing the print nozzles. I recently had a bad jam and I needed to remove the extruder assembly to clear it. I have a nozzle from MicroSwiss and I thought I'd try it out to see what sort of difference it made in my prints. So, with the extruder removed and heated up to 210C I grabbed the 'square' part (the part with the heater and thermistor) with some pliers and then tried to turn the nozzle with another pair of pliers. The nozzle wouldn't budge. I realize the nozzle starts to cool down pretty quickly once I grab it with the pliers, so I heated it up some more (~250C) and quickly tried to turn it. Still nothing. I cranked on it as hard as I could but it just seems to be frozen in there.

    Has anyone else had a similar problem? How did you finally get the nozzle out?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You are correct that it is installed hot and should be removed hot and your approach is exactly correct.
    It is not always easy, depends on how much torque they installed it with.

    If you can get one find a metric box-end wrench to use on the nozzle itself. Holding the heater block while loosening is critical as well (and you are already aware of that).
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I looked around to see if I could find any videos, but sadly -- I failed.
    My Google-Fu is weak today.
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Grab a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 7 mm deep well socket. Hold the block with your pliers, a crecent wrench, a 16mm whatever you perfer. Dont let the square(heaterblock) twist, onlt the nozzle.

    The ratchet may give you the leverage you need
     
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  5. Jay K

    Jay K New Member

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    Thank you both for the replies. I'll get a wrench or small ratchet driver and give it a try.
     
  6. Caleb Cangelosi

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    Thanks for this info. A related question - my nozzle was underextruding, so I took it out to try to see if it needed cleaning out. I managed to unscrew the heat sink (I believe that's what it's called - the part above the heater block), and ran some thin wire through it (couldn't get the wire to fit through the nozzle unfortunately). It did feel a little tighter than I thought it should, like filament was gunked up in there. I screwed it back on, and now I can't even get filament to extrude at all, it feels like the filament isn't even getting to the heater block/nozzle. I did heat it back up to screw the heat sink back on, but I'm wondering if I didn't screw it on tightly enough, or possibly too tightly - are those possible, or do you think I have another problem?

    If I'm able to get the nozzle off, what is the best way to clean PET-G off? Acetone, or something else?

    Also, re:underextrusion, my printer was working great until I changed filament, and I put more oil in my oiler. I think I put too much, could that have caused underextrusion? I am printing in PET-G, and I know it's PLA that absolutely needs an oiler, but I think I've read that it's no problem to oil when using PET-G too. But is it possible to use too much oil?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Too tight is not likely an issue, but too loose will cause the filament to leak out in unexpected places.

    Bake it. In an oven or use a torch (not too hot, just use propane, you can melt the brass* if you use Acetylene or MAPP gas with oxygen)

    Too much oil will just cause oil to end on on the print. Bear in mind that oil ONLY helps with PLA. Not PETG or ABS or anything else.


    *Yes, I have done that :)
     
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  8. Caleb Cangelosi

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    Thanks Mark. So by baking the nozzle, you mean just stick it in an oven at 500 degrees Fahrenheit (that's close to 250 C) and all the PET-G will melt off the inside and outside?

    Any other thoughts on why filament isn't going through to my nozzle, or why I was underextruding in the first place?
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, I have a little convection oven I use for just such emergencies* :)

    As for underextrusion... Have you calibrated the extruder?





    *I also use the convection oven for drying older filament as well.
     
  10. Caleb Cangelosi

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    I haven't, so once I get something coming through the nozzle I'll do that.

    But it was working just fine (at least to my satisfaction, even if not properly calibrated) for a lot of prints - would it all of a sudden just go out of calibration?
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is unlikely that calibration was related to your failure other than it will be the cause of incorrect extrusion (either under or over).
    It has likely been out of calibration since you got it and working acceptably well. Spare nozzles are a good idea as well (and cheap)
     
  12. Caleb Cangelosi

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    Thanks. Do you have a recommendation (and link) on which nozzles to buy? How often do you change your nozzle - only when it gets clogged, or do you make a habit of changing it regularly?
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I change it when I want to change sizes (from 0.4 to something else). When the nozzle wear it will slowly get larger and you can keep an eye on that, but this is a long-term change unless you use abrasive filaments like those with carbon fiber, wood, concrete, metal, etc. I have managed over the past few years to wear out only 3.
     
  14. Caleb Cangelosi

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    Mark, I have taken my heat sink back off of my extruder, and it feels like there is a clog in there. Can I bake the heat sink in the oven at 500 degrees as well, to melt the filament in there?
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sure, just make sure not to bake the thermistor or heater core (the bits with wires).
    Any of the all metal parts are safe to bake.
     
  16. Caleb Cangelosi

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    Great. I'm having trouble getting my nozzle off, like the original poster, even at 240 C. Those thermistor and heater core wires get in the way of my wrenches!
     
  17. Caleb Cangelosi

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    There is a red wax ring at the top of the heat sink (the side closest to the two screws where you insert the filament) - I'm assuming this will melt in the oven, is that okay?
     
  18. Caleb Cangelosi

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    So I was able to burn out the filament from the heat sink, and the red wax didn't melt off. What is that stuff?
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Something that comes with the hotend. Probably a high temp RTV or the like.
    It is non-critical whatever it is.
     
  20. Caleb Cangelosi

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    Thanks. I was wrong - even after an hour or so of trying to clean the old filament out, it's still gunked up too much for the filament to go in. Plus it looks like I bent the heat break where it screws into the heater block. I think I'm going to switch to the E3D V6.
     
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