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A couple of questions on build plates...

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by MChrisP1, May 24, 2016.

  1. MChrisP1

    MChrisP1 Member

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    I have a couple of questions about the Robo3D build plate and that new Fleks system people are using. Some background, I'm new around here, just started printing in March with the R1+ as my first printer. I am using MC for all my slicing. I am considering moving to S3D, but right now still on MC.

    First up I have a super small chip in my build plate. Robo3D came through like a champ and sent me a new one with nothing else but a pic of the chip. I have to rate Robo3D as solid on their 6 month warranty! So I also have a sheet of PEI, that I am thinking of laying down on the bed with hightemp transfer tape. - My question here is should I? I was thinking that that PEI sheet and tape would help preserve that bed over the long haul, right?

    Or as the thought just popped into my head, maybe use this Fleks system on top of it my chipped bed instead? My questions are around how to set up the Robo to use the Fleks on the bed. Basically it all centers around the machine set up and start up sequence for heating and auto leveling.

    1- I imagine the thickness of the Fleks system must be incorporated into my settings somewhere. Where is that? What woudl I need to do here?

    2- I see Fleks sells a puck for auto leveling beds, is this for is this to avoid burning the bed with a hot nozzle during the leveling process? If so, isn't there a way to set up G-Code so the R1 autolevels before heating up?

    Thanks all for your input in advance, I greatly appreciate it!
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hello! Im a plain glass and hairspray guy but most on here change the start up script to auto level then preheat to avoid melting the build plate. Last i read was the company is taking 4 weeks to respond (that concerns me) Someone posted on here (im looking for the link for you) about using plexiglass from lowes as a cheap substitute.

    @KTMDirtFace has one and can probably contribute more info.
     
    #2 Geof, May 24, 2016
    Last edited: May 25, 2016
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  4. MChrisP1

    MChrisP1 Member

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  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Your welcome. If you try to alternative let us know how you did !
     
  6. NaughtyGarfield

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    Hello Geof,

    How do you change the script to do auto level first then heat the nozzle? Do you have to modify it on firmware level?
     
  7. TomerO

    TomerO Member

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    It's done on the slicer level. You should have a gcode section. Just move G29 to be before the temperature commands

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
     
    MChrisP1, NaughtyGarfield and Geof like this.
  8. NaughtyGarfield

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    Hello TomerO,

    Thanks for the instruction. I did that, and the extruder stops at the last calibration point and it keeps pushing against the build plate, the good thing was the extruder wasn't heated. However I didn't feel safe and had to abort the print. Is this normal?
     
  9. MChrisP1

    MChrisP1 Member

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    Can you show a screenshot of your script? I bet somebody here can debug it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I have script for my S3D setup, so that my nozzle does not heat until after the auto level runs. But lately I am back to the stock glass with glue stick.

    But I have no idea how to use mattercontrol or help you out with setting it up to not auto level while hot.

    I have the Fleks3d, Zebra Skin, and Zebra Plate. I also have Build Tak. I have done painters tape and kapton tape as well.

    What material are you printing in mostly? and what were you using when it chipped the glass?

    Depending on what material your mostly printing I can help.


    But here is my basic rundown from trying it all.

    Zebra plate: Works really well for everything except ABS ( large abs, small abs parts like under 3" are fine mostly ), abs warps too bad and starts pulling the plate layers apart. its fixable if that happens however. Eventually after lots of prints the zebra plate starts to get kinda bumpy..again this is fixable ( Wayne@printinz told me to heat it in the oven and roll the bumps out with a rolling pin).. Also a little sandpaper block works too.

    Zebra Skin: It is the top few layers of the zebra plate but with a PERMANENT 3m backing. Do not stick it to your glass straight. I put blue panters tape down and then the zebra skin on top. does exactly what the zebra plate does but is not removable.

    Fleks3d: I have this on my newest robo, and I have the one that comes with the frame, I actually like this quite a bit, but I have ONLY tried PLA and PETG on it.... I really like the frame though because its so easy to print something and remove it and bend and flex it off. The Zebra Plate can do that too but it requires binder clips with the handles removed for clearance so then you have to find the handles to remove it to bend it to pop a part off.

    BuildTak: By far the stickiest of the bunch, everything sticks to it.. ABS sticks to it so well that when ABS warps ( which it does ) .. it may just start busting layers apart mid print instead of warping off the bed. I don't use BuildTak anymore and have no plans to buy anymore again( the same goes for ABS, I gave my last roll away and will never buy another ABS roll too many better filaments now ). Note: the BuildTak is removable if you are careful..not resusable but you can get it off, unlike the zebra skin, which wyane ( printinz owner ) told me do not put zebra skin straight on the glass or I wont get it off( so I installed blue panters tape first..and it came off fine ).

    Stock Bed with Elmers Glue: This is what im using now, other than ONE roll of PETG that I have..everythying else sticks to it just fine ( as long are your Z offset is super dialed in ) and I'm so lazy i never clean or add more glue.

    EDIT: All of them besides straight glass/glue/hairspray will require you to NOT auto level with a hot nozzle or you be putting melt holes in the surface.

    I have actually never tried hairspray.


    My Summary


    If you have a hole burning in your pocket, get the Zebra Plate or the Fleks3d system. Just note that you will get about a million times better support from Wayne@ printinz on the zebra side of things. But I really like the flex full mount setup.

    Otherwise just use the stock glass and some gluestick and get those settings dialed.
     
    #10 KTMDirtFace, May 25, 2016
    Last edited: May 25, 2016
  11. NaughtyGarfield

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    Sorry since I was new, all I know was to use factory software that was included with the Robo3D which was MC. I am now considering using Simplify3D just not sure if I can justify the price. You have mentioned so many kind of build plate or add-on which one you like the most? I have pretty good success with the glass most of the time, however I did see a little indent at the very last calibration point. Now I am considering getting some 3rd party solutions like Fleks3D you have mentioned.

    MChrisP1, Thanks I will try to post the code from my MC and see if anyone can tell what's wrong.
     
  12. TomerO

    TomerO Member

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    Yes it's normal since nothing is telling the printer to lift after auto leveling is done. Add a move command after G29 with the params you want (I think it's G1, Google gcode )

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
     
  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I like different ones for different reasons.

    Depends what material you are printing with

    for PLA.. none of them..none of the extra surface materials make any diffrence that I listed...unless you just are like me and hate cleaning the bed lol.


    Gluestick/Hairsprary is absolutely fine...and matter control should be as well... I already had Simplify3d before I got my robo so I really dont know how to use mattercontrol..But from what I read its not very good...but I have no idea I have never used it.

    An alternative to mattercontrol that is supposed to be good is Cura and its free..however I have no idea how to get it to work on the robo3d..never tried it but that info is on this forum somewhere I think if you search.
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That sounds like your microswitchs are not triggering in that last point. So it keeps going looking for home. Can you take a look at those, also if your unsure upload some clear photos and we can try to help

    If both switches are good the script is the next go.
     
  15. TomerO

    TomerO Member

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    It depends on what he means by pushing. If he did only move the G29 then the hotend will rest on the bed at the last point. Since all the other points are probed as should it sounds like that's what he means

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
     
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  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Thats a good pint. I read the keeps pushing and thought switches
     
  17. MChrisP1

    MChrisP1 Member

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    Did you get the 10x10 fleks3d system?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

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