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First test of FLEKS 3D build plate kit

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Bil Forshey, Mar 10, 2016.

  1. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    My experience with the FLEKS 3D biuld plate on my R1+ so far it works fantastic!

    I got mine through a Kickstarter campaign it arrived two days ago, installation was fairly easy. I had to more modify my firmware because I had selected the Makerbot 2 model which was a smaller in the X and Y axis than the Robo R1 so I had so set the X axis size to 200mm and the Y axis to 250mm, I never print objects that large anyway so I dont miss the few milimeters at all.

    The frame is attached to the glass bed with double sideed tape, and centered over the biuld area. next time I would select the 10 x 10 inch model which would fit the Robo R1 better and wouldn't require the firmware changes.

    My first print adhered perfectly with no warping and did not require bed heating ( FLEKS 3D recommends a maximum temperature of 60 degrees C of the bed).

    Removing the part was easilly accomplished by flexing the build plate in both directions a couple of times.

    I was printing with taulman N-Vent transparent filament, I had previously used hair spray on the bed and had limited success as the same part had warped ruining the print.

    I would highly recommend the FLEKS 3D build plate for any 3D printer users, It eliminates the most aggravating problem that users have of getting prints to adhere to the bed well enough to print, no messy sprays, no need to clean up sticky residue after printing, no masking tape, no Kapton tape, no glue sticks, just print and it works perfectly.

    Check out their website at flecks3d.com.
     

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    #1 Bil Forshey, Mar 10, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2016
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  2. TaylarRoids

    TaylarRoids New Member

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    Hi! I just got the same one, I'm currently working to find some G-code that will work for the opening script in Simplify-3D. Do you have a starting point that I could use? I'm struggling with the Z axis homing since the heated extruder can't touch the build plate, only that glass puck they included.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can have the extruder heat after the bed leveling.

    A lot of good tips here:

    https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1959

    Mine normally looks something like this:

    G28; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
    G28; Home Z again in case there was filament on nozzle
    G29 ; probe the bed
    M109 S[extruder0_temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait
     
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  4. TaylarRoids

    TaylarRoids New Member

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    The only thing with that is that I like to preheat the extruder while I'm loading the file so it's ready to go faster, which would be a problem with that code. I've sorta figured that out for now, I used macros to set a home function with the puck then time to swap to the plastic platform.

    Only other question is for the OP, how did you secure the frame to the glass build platform? I'm currently using binder clips but I don't see that on yours?
     
  5. TaylarRoids

    TaylarRoids New Member

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    Another related question: since the build plates don't have the finger cut out to remove them like the pictures for the Kickstarter did, how have you been removing them? I don't wanna cut them in fear of breaking/cracking them.
     
  6. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    Here's what I did, I mounted the frame to the glass bed (centered) with 1/2" wide Scotch double sided transparent tape applied to the rough side of the frame (I trimmed the excess tape with a razor so it didn't extend past the frame edge,), put the build plate in the frame to keep it from distorting. You can hold the build plate in the frame temporarily in place with masking tape. I taped a ruler to the edge of the bed to give me a guide edge to line up the build plate as i positioned it before sticking it down, removed the ruler and masking tape. I found that the build plate fit better in the frame one way better than the other, so I marker the front side with a black marker.

    I use a razor blade between the frame and the build plate to help pry the build plate loose.

    I modified the Marlin firmware auto level routine to change the coordinates used for the test points to be 15mm from the edges of the build plate. (this will vary with your setup). I don't use the glass puck at all.

    I changed the startup gcode to only heat the extruder after the auto level routine and added a G1 Z10 command to lift the head off the bed before heating. It waits after the auto level to heat up and begin printing.

    I added to the stop gcode to get the head to raise higher up to let me have easier access to clean the nozzle between prints.

    G91; change to relative positioning,
    G1 Z50; lift the head up 50mm;
    G90; change to absolute positioning.
     
  7. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    Great to see other people having success with Fleks3d! I was actually a beta tester before the Kickstarter :)

    What I did on simplify3d is offset the gcode the thickness of the bed.

    With dealing with Fleks3d, what they recommend for build plates like ours is to laser cut a sheet of acrylic or similar plastic in the shape of the bed with a void to insert the build plate then use the binder clips to fasten down the laser cut frame to the glass, which I do to the front and back of the bed.

    @Bil Forshey You might find it is a little easier to pop your print off if you wait 10 - 15 minutes for it to cool down.

    I have actually printed ABS, PLA, and composites with the bed at 10c without any problms.

    Another trick after you use the plate many times is to sand it with high grit sandpaper to give it a rough surface again.
     
  8. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    The one I received has the curves to pull it out from the frame. Fleks3d told me you can use a saw or laser cutter to cut the bed. I haven't tried either though.
     
  9. Burncycle

    Burncycle New Member

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    So if I were to get the 10 x 10 inch model, wouldn't the frame be too wide on the x-axis since it's 8 x 10 x 9?
     
  10. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    No. The measurement includes the frame. I actually have the 8" x 8" System. The System comes with 2 build plates also. :)
     
  11. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    The bed is 10" in the X axis so the 10 X 10" frame will just fit the X. You will loose about 1" of build area on the Y axis though. The next best option would be the Makerbot replicator gen5 build plate that one gives the full Y axis area but you loose some X axis area and have to alter your firmware.
     
  12. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    I asked the founder of Fleks3d the question and he said you can go with the 10" x 10" that you will loose a very small amount of build surface.

    How often do you use every square inch of your bed though.

    Since we have rectangular beds I just printed corners for mine instead of the using the supplied frame so I could use the binder clips on the front and back of the bed and not the sides. Works better in my opinion.
     
  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Thats one surface I havn't tried yet. Does ABS work on it? not that I ever use ABS anymore but curious.

    I usually use the printinZ Zebra plate, clips on with small binder clips with the handles removed.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Archania

    Archania New Member

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    How does the zebra plate work out?
    I ordered a fleks plate system. But still looking for other options.
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Works great for most everything I have tried.
    large ABS prints will pull too hard as it cools/warps and rather than come off the plate it starts delaminating the plate layers. they will go back though, if not you can heat it in the oven and use a rolling pin to smash the layers backtogether..and you can sand it if needed. I never use ABS anymore so thats not an issue for me. After many prints it tends to develop some bumps/uneavenness but the oven/rolling pin trick or sandpaper will fix it up. Those are the only drawbacks I have seen with it. reduce bed heat a LOT or don't use it at all is another tip, or you will have a hell of a time removing stuff.
     
  16. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    @KTMDirtFace
    Yes, Fleks3d works with ABS. I print ABS on the plate with about 15c heat.

    @Archania Also look into Proto-Pasta's build plate. You still need glue or whatever you use but it pops off the plate easy.
     
  17. Archania

    Archania New Member

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    Will do that Cbrown. Thanks. Just use to a removable bed. It makes cleaning the plate and removing the print much easier.
     
  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Cbrown Are you sure you print at 15°C bed temp? Sorry but I am going to call BS unless your printer is in an unheated garage or outside as 15°C is only about 59°F. And being that you are in Hotlanta, I doubt your ambient temperature is that low.
     
  19. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    I'm sorry I don't know what you are saying here. One of the first prints I did when I tested Fleks3d I set the build plate at 15c, because I was asked by the company to test that because I did't believe them. It was on a Makerbot 2x in a concrete room at KSU. Now if you know about the Makerbot 2x you would know it is closed and with ABS heat on the nozzle I'm sure there was plenty of ambient heat. I'm not sure what you are getting at...
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Basically telling you there was no way the bed was at 15°C unless you chilled it, that's all.
     

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