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First test of FLEKS 3D build plate kit

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Bil Forshey, Mar 10, 2016.

  1. Archania

    Archania New Member

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    Oh boy. This should be interesting trying it out later today then.
    Thanks to all and keep all the good/bad info coming!
     
  2. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    Yeah, I know your pain when the print fails on the first few layers. What I do is take a 150 grit sandpaper and sand it off. That's really my only complaint, but you clearly have bigger problems.

    Hope you get everything sorted!

    -CB
     
  3. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Haha i have done that, you have to be really careful with bed heat and your z-offset. start higher than normal on z and no or very little bed heat.
     
  4. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    For some reason the head crashed when I ran your code.
     
  5. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Crashed what do you mean?

    Its not doing anything that it doesn't do stock ( the top section of the code is 100% stock from simplify3d's default robo3d settings). Adjust your z-offset to your own needs.

    .. just the bed temp waits happen after the auto level is what i added.
     
  6. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    hmm the first time I ran the code it stopped on the first point until the percent finished hit 100% and the second time ( I didn't change anything ) on the last point it stopped until the percent finished hit 100%
     
  7. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Percent finished?

    What slicer are you using, that code is for Simplify3D only.
     
  8. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    I use Simplify3d and a Reprap LCD Controller
     
  9. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Strange I don't know then.

    This code is the default simplify3d start script for the robo3d.. nothing is changed ( other than the z offset )
    Code:
    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
    M565 Z-0.8 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
    G29 ; run auto-level
    
    This is all I added, after the auto level runs it raises the nozzle 5mm ( so that its not sitting on the bed )
    and then has the printer wait for the temperatures to heat up before printing.

    Code:
    ; This set of code is so that it autolevels before heating so that the BuildTek surface is not damaged
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm so it doesnt rest on the BuildTek while heating.
    M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; Set Bed Temperature
    M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; Wait for Bed Temperature
    M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature .
    M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait for temp
    M117 Printing... ;Put printing message on LCD screen
    
    EDIT: Are you connected via USB at the same time as the LCD?
    Every once in awhile mine gets confused and behaves strange for whatever reason if I have them both plugged in. I don't see any weirdness if my USB is not connected to simplify3d.. and i just print from LCD.
     
    #69 KTMDirtFace, Apr 1, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2016
  10. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    Mine will not connect to the computer when the lcd is plugged in.
     
  11. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I have no idea then. there is nothing special going on in that script.
     
  12. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    Hmm I have to look a little further into it.
     
  13. Bruce Jenkins

    Bruce Jenkins Member

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    Thank you all for taking the time to share your experiences and advice.

    Some of you have talked about adding / printing clips to hold the frame down. Would you be willing to share a photo of what you've done - and perhaps a .stl file for the clips?

    Thanks all.
     
  14. Archania

    Archania New Member

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    Think for the clips, people are just using the small binder clips.
    Unless there is something else. They are the same ones I'm using on my i3 to hold the glass down on the bed.
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    yea small metal binder clips should work, once you put them on you have to take the metal handles off them though for clearance. Thats what I use.
     
  16. XEMA

    XEMA New Member

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    Here is the clip I re-designed based on one I found: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1465977

    *Note: If printed properly, they should just clear the screw heads on the underside of the bed.
     
  17. Bruce Jenkins

    Bruce Jenkins Member

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    Thanks all for your clip ideas and information. Though expensive - I plan to get the Fleks3d system and give it a whirl.

    It looks like what we lose is a few mm where the plate curves to fit the frame. That's a shame, but at least we can use that area. I'm finding if I get anywhere outside the heat pad on the stock plate, my prints start to curl on me - even PLA and PETG. That's also frustrating.

    So - if I can get even some of that area back using the Fleks3D system that will be a plus.

    I had considered getting a 12 x 12 size and cutting it to fix - but it may not be worth the extra few mm gained.

    I'm also hoping that small prints - multiple up - will work better as well. Don't know if anyone has experience with that.
     
  18. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    I designed something similar to the Thingiverse link but mine is just a small frame that sits in the corners so you can mount on the front and back of the plate instead of the sides. I have to tweak it a little but I will share it on here and Thingiverse.
     
  19. Bruce Jenkins

    Bruce Jenkins Member

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    That frame sounds very interesting - will be looking forward to seeing your design.
     
  20. Bruce Jenkins

    Bruce Jenkins Member

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    Does anyone know if fleks3d plates can be cut? Say - with a fine toothed bandsaw blade?
    If so - does anyone have any experience with that?
     

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