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First test of FLEKS 3D build plate kit

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Bil Forshey, Mar 10, 2016.

  1. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    OOOh I see what you are saying. What it was physically at I don't know. The degree in celsius I put in was 15c.
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    So you actually didn't heat it at all, but let's suppose you printed in a cave deep under ground. Most experts will tell you that ambient air temperature in a typical cavern is about 18 or 19°C (64.5 - 66.2°F). Unless you chill the plate you cannot be below ambient temperature, so to say it stuck at 15°C would not be a true statement based on your testing. Just so you know most offices, even green ones rarely go below 20°C. Besides this, Fleks does suggest in its FAQ to heat to 60°C or about 140°F.
     
  3. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    I understand what you are saying about ambient heat.

    I have attached the sheet that actually comes with the Fleks3d be. I suggest you read it and not take snippets from it like you know what you are talking about and stop trying to one up me. :
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    B. I never said it stuck at 15c. I said and I quote, "The degree in celsius I put in was 15."

    For the record, "Green" doesn't mean anything. I am an Architect, I know.
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Not trying to one up as you say, just explaining why what you posted was misleading. That page is almost worded exactly like their FAQ with the exception of the temperature. I didn't take their statement out of context.
     
  6. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    Kind of did. The last line of the sheet they send out reads, "...do not require a heated bed." and "If used with heated beds, we suggest keeping the temperature below 100f/37c to avoid plate warping."

    Good night from Hotlanta.
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Cbrown I apologize, you are correct that it does say does not require a heated bed, and I glossed over that point.
     
  8. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    I apologize for getting unruly
     
  9. XEMA

    XEMA New Member

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    This thread actually talked me into getting the Fleks3D build plate. I still have some warping with ABS that I am working through, but it does stick pretty well once you get the layer height set correctly/calibrated. I love the fact that you can just pop off the pieces without a huge amount of effort. I took Bill's advice and bought the 10x10 with the frame, it has been working great, perfect size (10x11 or 10x12 might be even better). I have had to print some clips to hold down the corners. I find it tends to warp when heated and can become concave (evident when the corners are above the frame).
     
  10. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    Just make sure to be careful when you calibrate so you don't burn a hole in the plate with the nozzle. I did on mine :(
     
  11. XEMA

    XEMA New Member

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    I know what you mean, luckily mine crater is right next the the thumbhole so it isn't too bad. Definitely set the GCode to head up the extruder after you do the G29 auto level or calibrate with a cold hot end.
     
  12. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I'm liking that mounting frame thing on this. Does the plate stay down flat? or does it bow up in the middle?

    I might have to try one. even though I have BuildTak, Zebra Plates and Zebra Skin's already lol. I like to try everything.
     
  13. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    I haven't had a problem with bowing on my after a few months of use. They recommend using little to no heat to make sure the plate doesn't bend or warp
     
  14. XEMA

    XEMA New Member

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    The corners tend to come up above the frame when printing in my experience. I made some clips to put around it so the plate remains as flat as possible. Heating the plate tends to show this issue more in my experience, but even the heat from ABS with an unheated plate can show minor plate warping. The clips solved this issue.
     
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  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, ABS does crazy things to all the build surfaces except build Tak in my experience, with buildTak the abs can't seem to pull it up or warp and instead pulls the print layers apart. I don't use ABS anymore at all though.
     
  16. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Ordered a 10x10 Fleks system. That was quite expensive ( most expensive I have bought so far ) after shipping..but I am a fool I like to try everything. Nothing wrong with my build tak, or zebra plate, and zebra skin I just like to try it all I guess haha.

    Out of the ones I have tried I rank them like this for my uses. ( I don't do ABS anymore )
    1. Zebra Skin
    2. Zebra Plate
    3. Build Tak ( its only lower because I tend to tear them up frequently with my scraper, if I did ABS it would be #1 but I don't use ABS anymore just PETG, PLA and other random stuff these days. )

    I will see how the Fleks compares
     
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  17. Archania

    Archania New Member

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    My fleks system will be delivered today. As I have read through the posts, you have to change the z height off set right? Otherwise it will crashbintobthe plate.
    Anything else to do for it?
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Why would you need to change that?
    The Extruder 'finds' the bed by probing and then applies the offset.
    Adding the plate means the 'bed' will be 'found' higher.
     
  19. Archania

    Archania New Member

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    Just checking to see. That's good then that you don't have to play with the offsets.
    Thanks
     
  20. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    You might have to a "little" but only because you might find things stick too well now..at least on the other surfaces i have used i have had to raise my z offset by about .1mm. but not to prevent crashing.
     

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