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First test of FLEKS 3D build plate kit

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Bil Forshey, Mar 10, 2016.

  1. digitalsolo

    digitalsolo New Member

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    It's just plastic, a good sharp blade should cut it fine. SHARP will be key so that you don't make a mess of it.
     
  2. Cbrown

    Cbrown Member

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    I believe when I asked Fleks3d before they recommended you can use a bandsaw. But I have not had to cut mine.

    You most likely could laser cut it if you left the film on the back.
     
  3. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I just installed and did a quick test print. I don't have any problems printing on plain glass, but I like to try all build surfaces.

    For plain glass i'm using -0.8 Z offset in simplify3d. for the Fleks3d I raised it up to -1.0 as I don't want the thing glued on there. I havn't done anything yet exept this little ring test I made.

    I used small binder clips and removed the handles to hold the frame down.. it the same clips I use to hold my Zebra Plate down.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  4. Etan15

    Etan15 Member

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    I have given up on the Fleks3D. The two plates that were sent to me were warped and I contacted them 2 times with no feedback as of a week and a half. Guess I am out $55.

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
     
  5. XEMA

    XEMA New Member

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    I wouldn't give up on them, the one time I contacted them it did take awhile, but they did get back to me.

    Regarding the warped issue. Have you tried flexing the plate to get it back to level? These plates warp with heat naturally when you print on them anyway (just give it a flex in the opposite direction to get it back). Unless it is really bad, it should work it self out all by itself. In fact you could try putting the plate on the glass with the warped side up and heat the bed up to around 45C. I bet it would work itself out that way too.
     
  6. Etan15

    Etan15 Member

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    I put a dumbel in the middle of one for almost 2 days and it did nothing to the warp. Pretty strong stuff. I will try to contact them again.

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
     
  7. XEMA

    XEMA New Member

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    Try heating it up on your bed/plate first, then gently but firmly flexing out the warp. If the center is high, put your thumbs on the high side and flex the outside parts. You will likely have to flex it beyond where level is to get the warp out (just putting something heavy on it while on a flat surface is not going to remove the memory).
     
  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a picture of the warp? both of the plates that came with mine seem pretty flat. Flat enough anyway that the auto level can figure it out mostly.
     
  9. aliedholm

    aliedholm New Member

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    I just received my 10x10 fleks system a couple of days ago and I have been playing with it. The plates on mine also seemed to show up warped. I was having troubles with the autoleveling getting the right settings for the first layer to not be ground into the plate.

    I started with my z offset set to the height of the fleks (not understanding autolevel properly) and it just oozed PLA out from a few mm above the build plate. I systematically dropped the z offset down until I decided that the autoleveling feature should automatically pick up the height and just work with it. That was my first mistake, it jammed the nozzle right into the plate and there was not enough clearance for the filament to extrude properly so it just gobbed up in little bunches leaving a really ugly layer. The other consequence of this was that the proximity to the plate and the nozzle it etched the pattern of the calibration cube's first layer into the plate. Has anyone worked with sanding the plate to get it smooth again?

    I have noticed that for my build plates a z offset of .45 and .55 works. each build plate needs a different offset to print the first layer correctly. I believe this to be due to the warping in the plates. I have not taken my heated bed above 35c.

    I am contacting the company about the plates showing up warped, will try to update with resolution.
     
  10. digitalsolo

    digitalsolo New Member

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    I've had mixed luck with mine as I've used it. It takes some fiddling with z-height offset to get it just right, and I still etch into the plastic slightly. A little 120 grit sandpaper cleans it right up though. I did have the plate dislodge from the frame and ruin a print, and more recently a print of a bunch of objects made the plate warp up on the edges while printing, ruining the objects.

    I've found that a Marlin mesh leveled bed with dialed offset and hairspray to be more reliable for me than the Fleks3d, so I'll probably sell my frame and brand new bed for cheap. It's only worthwhile to me if it's more reliable than the glass and while it's neat, I've had at least as many failures on it as I have on glass, so.
     
  11. Etan15

    Etan15 Member

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    Well, I had all the issues you listed and the company still has not returned my email and it has been 2 weeks. I have resorted to Kapton tape and I have had amazing prints since.

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  13. aliedholm

    aliedholm New Member

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    When printing with your fleks plate, do you print on the smoother or rougher surface?
     
  14. digitalsolo

    digitalsolo New Member

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    Rough side.
     
  15. Sloan32

    Sloan32 Member

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    What case do you happen to be using for your LCD? Thanks.
     
  16. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Weird I don't have any problems with the glass, the fleks3d, the zebra, or buildTak. If I have problems I have the same problems on any of them.

    I'm printing with NO bed heat on my fleks3d. and I think a -1.1 or -1.2 z offset in simplify3d and it works pretty well. sticks too well most of the time. I had to fiddle around with the z offset till I got it how I wanted it.
     
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  17. aliedholm

    aliedholm New Member

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    Well, I asked the company if they could do anything for me and I have received no response and it seems like I probably will not. However after much sanding and bending I believe I have the system up and running. Its really nice being able to crack the parts off the plate and to be able to swap plates and keep the printer going.

    I have found optimal printing with .125mm z offset settings.
     
  18. Etan15

    Etan15 Member

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    I think Kapton tape should be included in the box when you get a Robo. Prints have been fantastic since moving to the Kapton tape. I

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
     
  19. Etan15

    Etan15 Member

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    @KTMDirtFace with Fleks3D plates that are bowed it is very difficult to work with. Be thankful you received flat plates. Looks like I donated $55 because they have been silent.

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
     
  20. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Can you post a picture of the plate warp?

    Sometimes my Zebra plate bows up in the middle i figured it would cause all sorts of issues but its worked fine. Im wondering if something else is going on for you?

    my Fleks3d seems to lay pretty flat.. I havn't even taken the paper off the second plate yet.
     

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